Chilling Out On Island Time

Position 09 54S 139 06W  It has been brought to my attention that where we arrived and where I said we had arrived were not in fact the same place, whoops!!  So this is just a short update to fix our position on the map and put us in Hanemoenoa Bay on Tahuata in the Marquesas. 

beautiful Hanemoanoa Bay

We have been here over a week now, there is nothing here, a lovely sandy beach ashore (bit of a tricky dinghy landing in the swell though), just two cousins live here in a couple of basic shacks, no phone coverage, definitely no internet or shops, just 5 yachts bobbing about at anchor, chilling out keeping ourselves amused.

Tomorrow we intend to make the big hop 9 miles across to Atuona on Hiva Oa, the winds and swell should be settling down so we hope the anchorage wont be too rolly, we will see. 

We're Having A Party ~ Arrival in the Marquesas, 19 days 4 hours

10 August 2015  ~  Position 09 24S 139 06W. 

At noon Marquesas time we dropped anchor in Hanemoenoa Bay on the island of Tahuata, looks absolutely lovely, but first priority is sleep until further notice.  We have arrived!!

   

One More Night ~ Day 19 to the Marquesas

09 August 2015  ~  Position 09 48S 136 25W at 1730 UTC, 0930 Boat Time (Alaska Time)  0530 tomorrow NZ Time.

Course Over Ground 265dT, Speed Over Ground 5.1 knots,  24 hour run just 112 miles sailed for net gain of 105 miles.  Clear skies and starry night but total cloud cover early morning now cleared.  Wind dropped out entirely yesterday afternoon so we dropped all sails and bobbed about going nowhere until about midnight when we drifted off under poled out headsail  Not putting main back up, going fine like this with staysail sheeted in to leeward, even more rolly but easy. 
 

Absolutely no news, life in voluntary solitary confinement is nearing the end, we are sure we can see the silhouette of the Marquesas on the horizon if we look hard enough!   

This has been such a long haul and our admiration goes out to those that have done this before us, and those still to follow in our footsteps.  You can have no understanding of the enormity of this ocean until you undertake this voyage, there is nothingness forever.

Our very special thanks go out to John on Osprey, currently land based in England, who has sent us daily updates on all manner of current affairs, sport and especially weather, don't know how many hours you have spent of it John but you have done and amazing job and we thank you greatly, still awaiting the arrival of the steamroller though, you've let me down on that one!  John did this trip single handed some years ago, we take our hats off to him. 

Huge thanks go also to fellow cruisers David and Brenda on Bandit who did this trip last year, Bandit is now home in Picton, New Zealand and David and Brenda are in the UK enjoying summer.  They have sent us lengthy daily emails that have entertained us immensely detailing their daily grind of walks along canals, through National Parks, visiting National Trust manors and castles, museums, farmers markets, cosy pubs, trendy cafes ..... maybe there is life after cruising after all.

Still no more fish, not at all impressed.
  

And now to the big question ...... ARE WE NEARLY THERE YET?   Well, it's 4.30pm Balvenie time now (3pm Marquesas time) and the GPS tells us we have 120 miles to go and we have fair winds from behind forecast for our final push, we will be in before dark tomorrow, so the all important answer is YES ~ WE ARE NEARLY

THERE, just one more night!!! tick tock, tick tock. 

   

You can see our progress  on a map on our mailasail blog.  

Position at 0100UTC when sent via satphone 09 55.08S  137 05.48W 

Turn The Page ~ Day 18 to the Marquesas

08 August 2015  ~  Position 09 27S 134 39W at 1730 UTC, 0930 Boat Time (Alaska Time)  0530 tomorrow NZ Time.

Course Over Ground 285dT, Speed Over Ground 5.1 knots,  24 hour run 138 miles again.  Clear skies and starry night again, wind dropped out to around 10kts and gone to the NE.  Sails up, down, in, out, course this way, that way, this way again, gype, gybe back as the wind and swell changes, hard work. 

Todays big news is that skipper is very happy with the English Cricket Team and thanks to those with updates, made his day.  And that basically is all the news, nothing is happening out here. 

should have counted how many sail changes we have done

We can now hear the Polynesian sector of our radio Magnet and are listening to boats that came through much earlier than us check in enroute to Samoa, Cook Islands, Tonga and other South West Pacific treasures.  At last we do actually feel that we have turned the page and arrived at the final chapter of our circumnavigation.  The Caribbean and Americas are far behind us, Polynesia awaits.

  

Yet another fish free 24 hours, mind you we are going so slow now that our lure does not look so appealing.  I found another "passage meal" in the freezer earlier, think it is surely the last.  While cooking dinners in the Galapagos I would cook for four and freeze a meal, I didn't label any of them so it has been quite nice not knowing what was for dinner until it was time to tip it in a pot and heat it up.   

For those of you querying our change of arrival from Fatu Hiva to Tahuata (and there have been a few of you!) as we are staying in the Marquesas for some time we have decided to do our check in first and then we can pick a quiet day to get south to Fatu Hiva and then we can happily stay as long as we want, so thats the reasoning, but thanks for the reminders that we should not miss Fatu Hiva.

ARE WE NEARLY THERE YET?   Well, it's 5.15pm local time now and the GPS tells us we now have 229 miles to go, we have had the wind drop out this afternoon, as low as 4 knots and currently just 6 knots, we have dropped the main as it was banging around too much in the swell, and running with headsail poled to windwind and staysail on leeward, we are managing 3 knots, could be a long 229 miles!!!! tick tock, tick tock. 

   

You can see our progress  on a map on our mailasail blog.  

Position at 0130UTC when sent via satphone 09 34.07S  135 10.76W 

Stairway to Heaven ~ Day 17 to the Marquesas

07 August 2015  ~  Position 08 28S 132 39W at 1730 UTC, 0930 Boat Time (Alaska Time)  0530 tomorrow NZ Time.

Course Over Ground 245dT, Speed Over Ground 6.6 knots,  24 hour run 163 miles again.  

Fabulous weather couldn't ask for any better.  Clear skies, starry night, back to a Mezzaluna (halfmoon) which comes up after midnight now. Wind now ENE and eased 12 - 15.  Still flying double reefed main, (probably should put it all up really) jib poled out to windward, staysail out to leeward, broad reaching to keep boat comfortable over the swell which just wont go away.

the wind died out completely for a few hours late afternoon

 

Todays big news is that Wapiti, one of the four of us out here just had 36 miles to run this morning into Hiva Oa, they left directly from Panama City so have been 27 days at sea, a mammoth effort.  We are closing in on Ole who left 36 hours before us but unlikely we will catch them, Mezzaluna are now about 130 miles behind us.

Another fish free 24 hours, the others aren't catching any now either so we don't feel so bad, just a couple before we arrive would be good though.  

So we are slowly climbing the stairway to heaven, must almost be on the top floor surely.  All reports of the Marquesas are that they are absolutely magical so we are definitely looking forward to our arrival, and not leaving for a very long time.

ARE WE NEARLY THERE YET?   It's 3pm local time now and the GPS tells us we now have 354 miles to go, hoping for a Monday arrival before dark, but winds easing all the time.  GETTING THERE!!!, tick tock, tick tock. 

   

You can see our progress  on a map on our mailasail blog.  

Position at 2300UTC when sent via satphone 08 42.47S  133 11.17W 

As Time Goes By ~ Day 16 to the Marquesas

06 August 2015  ~  Position 07 25S 130 08W at 1730 UTC, 0930 Boat Time (We have moved to Alaska Time!!)  0530 tomorrow NZ Time.

Course Over Ground 255dT, Speed Over Ground 6.5 knots,  24 hour run 163 miles.

 Good weather is still holding, clear skies all yesterday afternoon and into the night, clouded over after midnight with a few squalls just before dawn to interrupt our sleep rations.  Wind E 15 - 20 now but 10 - 18 overnight, up and down and all around with the squalls.  The squalls weren't bad but hard to tell on radar, just see the line of black marching towards us and prepare ourselves just in case, then wind drops out and we put sails all back out, then along comes the next one, sails reefed in again.  At least we are not bored!!  Still flying double reefed main, jib poled out to windward, got lots of southing in yesterday.

only 4pm and it feels like dinner should have been ages ago

Big news is that today has got 26 hours.  Daybreak wasn't until 0820 this morning, getting a tad late really so we have decided just to do one time change now of two hours and will do the remainder of one and half hours on arrival.  So this morning at 9am we had the morning radio net, then we had breakfast and then I changed the clock, watches, tablet, smart phones and computer to Alaska Time!! 

Feels quite warm for Alaska and it hasn't encouraged any mountains to appear on the horizon but makes for a change.  It will get dark very early tonight though, but the upside for me is that tomorrow morning when I come on for my second shift at 0530 I will only have to wait a little while before it gets light.

Still no more fish, not impressed at all, was hoping to fill the freezer up.

So the ongoing question ......  ARE WE NEARLY THERE YET?   Well, as I finish this skipper is hand steering down the waves having fun and I am holding on whilst trying to type.  We are just about to click over the 500 miles to go, getting there, tick tock, tick tock. 

Current planned landfall is the island of Tahuata, just to the southwest of Hiva Oa where we can check in.

   

You can see our progress  on a map on our mailasail blog.  

Position at 2350UTC when sent via satphone 07 39.09S  130 52.56W 

Slip Sliding Away ~ Day 15 to the Marquesas

05 August 2015  ~  Position 06 37S 127 33W at 1730 UTC, 1130 Boat Time (Still on Galapagos Local)  0530 tomorrow NZ Time.

Course Over Ground 255dT, Speed Over Ground 7.0 knots,  24 hour run 166 miles. 

Good weather is holding, clear skies with just a few trade wind clouds around that bring just a little extra wind. Wind ESE 15 - 20, easing and backing all the time, seas still very lumpy tough.  Still flying double reefed main, jib poled back out to windward, finally managing to get some southing in and almost lay our course.

not quite enough for dinner

Very little to report, had a ship pass by from North West to South East overnight on change of shifts so we both got to see that there is other life out there.  A handful of birds pass by but none seem intereted in stopping for a rest, no fish for dinner.  These should be the conditions we now get for the rest of the trip, with hopefully some easing in the sea state.

Striken or should that be striking Ray the autopilot is still resting, thanks to all for feedback on his symptoms, skipper still working on him.  Thanks again for all the incoming emails, it makes our day.

So ......  ARE WE NEARLY THERE YET?   Well, the miles are slip sliding away and we are now under 700 left to run, tick tock, tick tock.
    

You can see our progress  on a map on our mailasail blog.  

Position at 2215UTC when sent via satphone 06 48.72S  128 01.30W 

So Far Away ~ Day 13 to the Marquesas

03 August 2015  ~  Position 05 41S 122 10W at 1730 UTC, 1130 Boat Time (Still on Galapagos Local)  0530 tomorrow NZ Time.

Course Over Ground 270dT, Speed Over Ground 7.1 knots,  24 hour run 166 miles.  

Not a bad 24 hours with the weather, quite clear skies with about 30 % puffy clouds that just hold a little more wind.  Wind SE 18 - 22, swell running about 3 metres now, not quite from behind and with a beam slap way more frequent than we would like. Still flying double reefed main, jib poled to windward has been furled in and out that many times on this trip, not quite a set and forget passage, that is for sure.

come on Ray, whats the matter?

Skipper is doing more work on Ray our autopilot that has gone on strike, so hard to do much in these conditions, everything rolls everywhere, meanwhile Arnie is doing a fine job of steering in somewhat tiresome conditions.

The Galapagos are so far away now but we are still operating on their timezone so it doesn't get dark till 8pm and then light just before 8am, so we have extended our sleep rations and are having from 7pm to 9am, thereby getting two 3 1/2 hour shifts each which is a little better plus we have had no reason for sail adjustments mid shift for 2 nights now.

You can see our progress  on a map on our mailasail blog.  

Position at 2230UTC when sent via satphone 05 44.64S  122 45.34W 

Surfs Up ~ Day 12 to the Marquesas

02 August 2015  ~  Position 05 39S 119 24W at 1730 UTC, 1130 Boat Time (Still on Galapagos Local)  0530 tomorrow NZ Time.

Course Over Ground 255dT, Speed Over Ground 7.3 knots,  24 hour run 164 miles.  

Lovely afternoon yesterday with not a cloud in the sky.  Clouded over some at sunset but had a good night with no squalls so we both got sleep rations.  Winds to 25 knots on and off swell running about 3 - 4 metres now, skipper has been steering and had Balvenie surfing down the waves, Admiral not so impressed!  Still flying double reefed main, reefed jib poled to windward, wish the swell would drop some.

Really not much to report except mundane things like sugar bowl flying across galley while being refilled, can of  Ginger Ale going into orbit all over galley and saloon ~ mixed nicely with remains of sugar, and if that wasn't a big enough mess down here the only fish we got yesterday was a flying fish that landed below at 2am and I stood on it before I realized what the noise was, so many fish scale have added to the mess.  Believe me these are not the conditions you want to be doing housework in!!

Are we nearly there yet??????  Absolutely not!!!!!

You can see our progress  on a map on our mailasail blog.  

Position at 2215UTC when sent via satphone 05 40.33S  119 57.34W  Another clear afternoon, bit windy though, 18 - 25 knots, hoping for an ease

In The Middle of Nowhere ~ Day 11 to the Marquesas

01 August 2015  ~  Position 05 19S 117 00W at 1730 UTC, 1130 Boat Time (Still on Galapagos Local)  0530 tomorrow NZ Time.

Course Over Ground 255dT, Speed Over Ground 7.3 knots,  24 hour run 169 miles 1 mile less than yesterday.  

Another cloudy night with more squalls overnight and this morning, winds to 28 knots and a little rain, seas increased and swell running about 3 metres, tiring 24 hours but skies now clearing and looking promising.  Still flying double reefed main, reefed jib poled to windward.

Passed the half way point overnight, hard to believe we have already been out here so long and we have only just made halfway.  I read on friends blogs and looking at the atlas seems to confirm that this is the furthermost point on earth you can be from land, not something our Mums probably want to know!!!

the little I in the middle is where we are, yep, it's the middle of nowhere

Bit of a set back overnight, our Ray Marine Autopilot has decided that 1500 miles in one go is all he is prepared to steer for and has developed a "Drivestop Error" and turns himself off.  Mark has spent the day bouncing up and down checking wiring, connections, reading manuals etc but as yet Ray is still on strike, we have had this problem about 1 year ago and Mark fixed it but the same solution hasn't worked this time.  We do have two autopilots so Arnie is now steering (actually right now Mark is steering) but we still have a long way to go so want our backup working.

A huge thanks to all of you that are emailing us regulary with weather, news, sports news, family and friends news and general chit chat, it truly makes our day and no matter how brief we appreicate them immensely.  So sorry we are not emailing many personal ones out, maybe when (if) the sea flattens some more, we live in hope.

You can see our progress  on a map on our mailasail blog.  

Position at 2300UTC when sent via satphone 05 21.69S  117 20.67W  Not a cloud in the sky, 18 - 23 knots, hoping for a better night

Alone Again, Naturally ~ Day 10 to the Marquesas

31 July 2015  ~  Position 05 02S 113 579W at 1730UTC, 1130 Boat Time (Galapagos Local)  0530 tomorrow NZ Time.

Course Over Ground 265dT, Speed Over Ground 7.5 knots,  24 hour run 170 miles best yet, cleared this morning after cloudy night, winds constant though and great 24 hours sailing.   Still flying double reefed main, full jib poled to windward, wind has shifted more arund to the stern so quite comfortable.  Swell about 2m.

Romeo and Juliet the Wilsons Stormpetrals have slipped away from us, they must have finally worked out we were going the wrong way for them.  Good 24 hours, lovely conditions currently although Mezzaluna are reporting squalls so maybe coming our way too.  Big news tonight will be reaching the half way point, whew!!! 

Nothing else to report.

You can see our progress  on a map on our mailasail blog.  

Position at 2240UTC when sent via satphone 05 08.43S  114 30.64W  Squalls started about 30 minutes ago