Martha’s – The Vineyard with No Wine ….. Sep 2013

23 – 30 Sep: Saquish Neck to Cuttyhunk Pond – 41 25N  70 55W

Back through the Cape Cod Canal

The time had come to leave Boston, we dropped our mooring ball and headed out of Boston Harbour.  We had had a great time but September was coming to a close, leaves were starting to fall, geese and whales were migrating south – and we needed to follow their time tested instincts!  With winds of 15 –20 knots from behind we had a steady sail south,  the sun was out and it was almost warm. 

We rounded the headland that leads to Plymouth Harbour, but Plymouth is several miles up a channel so we dropped anchor late afternoon at Saquish Neck, just inside the headland off a beautiful long sandy beach.   On a warm sunny day a shore excursion along the beach would have been compulsory the following morning before departure, but with cooler temperatures it just didn’t seem so appealing.

We left late morning to time our arrival at the entrance to the Cape Cod Canal with slack water and then the ebbing tide and current with us, all the way through and down Buzzards Bay.  The forecast light winds never eventuated so we motored all day.  

We listened to the first of the days Americas Cup racing while underway, another loss to Team New Zealand, the cup’s return to New Zealand was slipping from our grasp.  The 2nd race started just as we closed in on Woods Hole and Hadley Harbour, with severe currents and rocks aplenty we decided that negotiating the narrow and shallow harbour entrance while concentrating on Americas Cup racing was not good seamanship.  So we motored around in circles in clear water, listening as yet another win went Oracles way, they had transformed their boat and now seemed unbeatable. 

We safely entered Hadley Harbour in sombre moods, the dreams and hopes of our tiny nation now rested on the last “winner takes all” race, it was more than we could take.   We picked up a free mooring, skipper poured us a couple of stiff drinks, we toasted Team New Zealand’s  mammoth effort so far and sat back and soaked up the truly lovely surroundings.    

Naushon Island is one of many islands in this area privately owned by the very wealthy Forbes Family.  They are very generous in providing free moorings in this superb land locked tiny harbour, cows and horses grazed in the waterfront paddocks, evening birdsong accompanied our sundowners - it was a wonderful rural farmyard scene, seldom one we get to enjoy from the boat.

The Vineyard

Next morning we left at slack water, negotiated the short cut at Woods Hole (probably quite an interesting half mile stretch with howling winds over springtides, a little like running a grade 5 rapid I expect), but we had benign conditions so just encountered a few whirlpools and soon we were spat out into Vineyard Sound.  Then it was just a short hop across to Vineyard Haven on the very affluent and popular “summer home’’ island of  Martha’s Vineyard, nicknamed “The Vineyard”. 

There were strong northerlies forecast so we really needed to slot behind the breakwater so we could stay in Vineyard Haven.  There was absolutely nowhere to anchor but we saw a vacant town mooring, however we weren’t able to raise the Harbour Master to confirm we could take it so tied up anyway – hoping for the best.  Shortly afterwards the Harbour Master headed in our direction and we awaited the news of possible eviction, but no, it was Welcome to Vineyard Haven – yes you are fine here – and no, there’s no charge weekdays now that it’s off season.  Excellent, what a great welcome. 

That afternoon we listened to the final race in the 34th Americas Cup, hopes were extremely high when we won the start and led at the first mark, but Oracle passed us upwind and they never looked back, our boys could do no more – they had done us extremely proud but the Americas Cup was not to be New Zealand’s Cup.  It was such a disappointing outcome after the huge lead Team New Zealand had amassed, but, as we tried to convince ourselves, it was just a boat race, life would go on without the Americas Cup.

Next day we took our bikes ashore and cycled along the coastal cycle path to Oak Bluffs.  Originally settled as a summer retreat for a church movement over 200 holiday cottages were built and many are still standing, all very cute, colourful and rather whimsical.  Nowadays Oak Bluffs is a busy summer harbour fringed with waterside restaurants.

We kept pedalling on to Edgartown, the main town and by far the most upmarket.  Hidden away down one of the tree lined driveways is the property where the Obamas spent their summer vacation – following in the footsteps of the Clintons.  We stopped in a harbourside restaurant for lunch, enjoying the sun which was finally bursting out from behind the clouds.  Then we took the inland cycle path back to Vineyard Haven, such a great way to explore the island and get some exercise.

What’s in a Name?

Martha’s Vineyard was first discovered by Europeans in the early 1600’s.  There was a large Indian population already there and although unfortunately their number diminished hugely with the arrival of white mans diseases they stayed and integrated well with the new arrivals.  They were accepted by the Europeans, given equal education and were proud to have the first Native American accepted into Harvard University.

But why is it called a Vineyard?, well I’ve Googled and Wikipediaed it and still don’t know.  Martha was the grandmothers and daughters name of the man who discovered the island but I can see no record of any vineyards until the 20th century.  The irony is that most of the island is “dry”, liquor can not be purchased in any stores, there are few bars (none in Vineyard Haven), alcohol must be accompanied by food.   Good way to keep away the summertime partiers!

Next day we were going to explore the more rugged western end of the island and visit Menemsha the tiny harbour village where “Jaws” was filmed.  The weather decided otherwise, we had seen all of the Vineyard we were going to.

 The New England Sailing Season is Ending

With clear skies again we took the chance to move along to Cuttyhunk Island, the forecast was good for a couple more days so we headed out into Vineyard Sound, raised the sails and had a pleasant downwind trip in light winds the 20 miles westwards to Cuttyhunk, the furthermost west of the Elizabeth Islands.

Cuttyhunk had been on our list of places to visit since meeting the New Zealand yacht Cuttyhunk  back in the Canary Islands in 2011.  We shared several anchorages through the Caribbean with Irene and Chris onboard Cuttyhunk and finally farewelled them in Grenada as they headed for the Panama Canal , Pacific and back to New Zealand.  

We edged our way slowly in through the shallow channel and arrived into Cuttyhunk Pond, another wonderfully protected landlocked harbour.  It’s not big in there but the entrepreneurial locals have installed around 60 moorings buoys which go for $45 each a night in summer, great income for this tiny community.  They did leave a small space for anchoring as well and we slotted in there happily.  We were there for really the last weekend of the summer cruising season for the locals, on Saturday night there would have been 30 boats, Sunday just 2 of us remained. 

We enjoyed a walk ashore through this sleepy little settlement on Saturday afternoon, it was pretty much closed, but to be honest it didn’t look like there was normally much to be open!!  The guidebook talks of an excellent grocery, must have been camouflaged as someone’s house, but the Raw Bar Oyster Shack was open for an hour so we did what you must do on Cuttyhunk – buy some oysters. 

Cuttyhunk Oysters, buy on the dock or they deliver – just had to try some

Sunday provided more sunshine, we just couldn’t leave this beautiful sheltered spot. We sat back and watched as a procession of boats emptied out of the anchorage, heading in all directions back to their home ports, probably to be winterized for another year. 

We had another walk ashore, found a lovely small sandy beach to enjoy a picnic lunch and had a lazy day. This will be our last remote island getaway until we reach the Caribbean again, we were in no hurry to leave.

As the Sunday afternoon ferry sat at the wharf, golf cart after golf cart made the trip down, dropping bags, boxes and chilly bins – many of the summer home owners were shutting up for the season too.  The golf carts all got lined up nearby, left exposed to the elements until spring arrives we guess.

the cute Harbourmasters Office at Cuttyhunk Wharf

Back to Rhode Island 

Monday morning we left our little island paradise.  There was a great weather window to head 200 miles south to the Delaware River and into the Chesapeake but we had our new headsail waiting for us in Newport, Rhode Island so it was westbound for Balvenie. 

Shortly after clearing the island we had our closet ever visit by a whale, it was enormous, easily the length of Balvenie, it rose out of the water just metres off our port beam – we both just gasped in awe, a totally magnificent sight, one that will never be forgotten.

Time To Return to One of our Favourites – Newport

Boston – Time for a Tea Party ….. September 2013

17 – 23 Sep 2013:  Boston – 42 21N 71 02W

Bikes At Last!!

We had decided to take a mooring buoy at the Boston Waterboat Marina during our stay in Boston.  The location was magnificent, just 100 metres off Long Wharf, the hub of all waterfront activity in Boston, it couldn’t have been better.  But a central location can also have its downsides; plenty of activity with ferries, water taxis and sightseeing cruises but this is not New York, its not that busy and things quieten down at night.  However, lurking deep below the surface, hidden from view is the ”T”, Boston's underground commuter rail network and we were right on top of the Blue Line, never before have we laid in bed listening to the rumble of trains under Balvenie!!!

Our first Boston excursion was to go north about 20 miles to Salem.  Most tourists take the convenient ferry from Long Wharf to wander round this historical maritime town and soak up  its rich seafaring history, others go to follow the Witch Trail and see one of the few places in America where several women were put to death in 1692 accused of witchcraft,  – however not us, no history or witch hunts for us,  we went to pick up our new bikes from Walmart!! 

We caught two buses to get to Walmart, picked up and assembled our new folding bikes (the same bikes that couldn’t be delivered to Rockland for us), had time to grab takeaway coffees – Dunkin Donuts do lattes and they aren’t too bad in an emergency! – then went and awaited the next bus, our gleaming new bikes were eventually placed on the bus bike rack, the bus ride was free because the machine wasn’t excepting notes, and back to Boston we went.  Mission accomplished.

Our first cycle ride was from the bus station to the marina, luckily there is a green belt that runs along this waterfront area so we managed to stay “off road” and out of harms way.   We made it back to the local bar with 15 minutes to spare before the next round of Americas Cup Racing. 

Biking Round Boston

We spent the next 4 days exploring all of what Boston has to offer, there is plenty to see and the weather was superb.  We spent one day cycling the Freedom Trail, it is a self guided tour that covers sites involved in the commencement of the American Revolution. 

For those of you like me, with a poor memory of history, here’s a snapshot.  Boston was settled by the English around 1630.  Eventually the early settlers got somewhat tired of being told what to do and with whom they could trade with by the British.  There was an uprising which resulted in the 1770 Boston Massacre, England winning and colonists even more disgruntled.  Then in 1773 the Brits put a tax on tea, the settlers were not happy and raided three British ships full of tea that were sitting in the harbour – overboard went all the tea and that little event was called The Boston Tea Party!  More friction ensued and soon thereafter groups formed to revolt against the British, local man Paul Revere appeared as the leader of the Colonial Militia and on April 18 1775 the American Revolution began. 

The rest is history

We visited Shipyard Park and toured the USS Constitution, fondly known as “Old Ironsides” because when she was built in 1797 she was so strong that cannonballs just bounced off her, the British didn’t know what they were up against.  Over 400 men sailed her at a time, now that would have been rather snug!

   

Also docked nearby was the USS Cassin Young, a destroyer from the 2nd World War and the adjacent Naval Museum was also worth the visit.  We came back city side and pedalled the streets of ”Little Italy” in the North End, the Italians arrived in the early 20th century and have created a fabulous area overflowing with trattorias, cafes, pizzerias, bakeries, gelatos bars – ah, all those wonderful Italian foodie things that smell and taste oh so wonderful.     

Nearby is Faneuil Hall  a public marketplace since colonial times this area is now the place to go for outdoor dining and hanging around.  Along with adjacent Quincy Market & North and South Market buildings this pedestrian area was buzzing with outdoor street performers, market stalls & food vendors and had a very lively feel and great vibe each time we passed through.

Venturing Further Afield

Maximizing our new little bikes we cycled a few miles out to the Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum.  This is an outstanding private collection of the Stewart Gardners’ , this couple started collecting pieces of art during extensive worldwide travels in the late 1800’s.  After her husbands passing Isabella designed a magnificent Italian inspired 4 storey home ”Fenway Court” and spent years collecting more pieces to furnish the rooms with the view of it becoming a museum.  She stipulated that everything must always be displayed as she had laid it out.  It is an amazing collection and the building and central courtyard are simply beautiful, the private artwork collection exceptional.  

We stopped for a look inside Cheers, the basement bar made famous in the 1980s sitcom series.  Avid fans were queuing outside waiting for tables so we just had a wee peak and carried on.  We cycled through the upmarket areas of Newbury and Boylston Streets, past row upon row of beautiful Boston Brownstones, meticulously cared for, flower boxes adding colour and street side trees just starting to go golden, a very pleasant area. 

 Made it into Harvard …well for a visit!

Another day we packed a picnic lunch and took the river front cycle route all the way out to Cambridge and onto Harvard. 

Cambridge is a very normal town but it was buzzing with thousands of elite students, the creme de la creme, preparing for years of study ahead at this top university.   Harvard Village was a cute and compact place, statues of famous Harvard graduates adorned every available spot.  And there are many famous graduates as Harvard is Americas first university, opened way back in 1636.

On our way back to town we passed Fenway Park, home to the Boston Red Sox Baseball Team.  We had originally planned to go to one of the home games one evening but sadly our early evening moods were somewhat gloomy after watching Team Zealand’s huge lead dwindle away, day by day, in the Americas Cup Racing.

Those That Will Never Be Forgotten

One day we found The New England Holocaust Memorial.  6 towers form an outdoor corridor of granite and glass, commemorating the 6 million Jews killed in the six main concentration camps during the six years, 1939-1945.

Inscribed along the pathway between the towers are factual statements about the Holocaust, and inside the glass walls are quotes from witnesses to the massacre.  Also etched on the glass are thousands of numbers representing the numbers tattooed on the prisoners.

This is an outstanding memorial, so simple and subtle but so effective , such a poignant reminder of the atrocities carried out resulting in over 6 million lives so tragically  lost.

We also found a small discreet memorial for US Servicemen and women killed in action in Afghanistan, hundreds of tags hung as a reminder of the lives so needlessly lost.

Will we ever learn from history?

 Boston You’re Just Beautiful

We filled our days in this wonderful city effortlessly, we quickly got to know all the bike friendly streets, found the local markets, best Italian bakery, supped on excellent lattes and visited all (well several!) of the Irish Pubs. 

The Irish first came in the mid 18th century and there is still a thriving community these days.  Unlike the Italians who all seem to be gathered in Little Italy, the Irish just seem to have a corner each all over town, and on that corner is a great atmospheric Irish pub.

We loved Boston, a beautiful city overflowing with history and culture, certainly a favourite for both of us.  New England had exceeded our high expectations, by far the most enjoyable area of the USA we have ever visited.  Might just have to return one day and spend more time.

Not Forgetting the Americas Cup

Our attention daily was however totally focused on the Americas Cup Yacht Racing every afternoon at 4.15pm, and we made sure we were perched in front of the big screen in plenty of time for the action.   As the days passed we sat in disbelief and watched Team New Zealand’s 8-1 lead diminish to 8-6.  Two races had been cancelled whilst underway and another while still in the starting sequence, Team New Zealand had been leading in all three races, luck was certainly not with us and Oracle were getting stronger every day. 

We had a window to carry on heading south.  Watching the live coverage daily of the Cup slipping away, with only one race needed to win it, was more than we could take. Maybe we would have better luck if we couldn’t watch it.

Maybe Not

Think We’re Going Back To Massachusetts ….. Sept 2013

13 – 17 Sep 2013:  Richmond Island to Gloucester – 42 36N 70 39W

Friday the 13th

With such an ominous date we weren’t too surprised to awaken to more gloomy weather.  Tropical Depression Gabrielle was still hovering but forecasts showed for an afternoon improvement so we readied ourselves for departure: the great southern migration was about to begin.  The fog cleared at 2.30pm and we lifted anchor in company with Serafina and headed south down Harpswell Sound.

By 3pm the fog had returned, along with rain, this was not in the plan.  There was no wind so we were motoring through pea soup, relying on radar and electronic charts for navigation; good luck for not snaring a lobster pot; and layers of thermals, fleeces and Southern Ocean wet weather jackets for warmth! Admiral was NOT impressed.  We moved 18 miles south to Richmond Island, the wind picked up on arrival making the anchorage a lee shore and a slight swell had us rolling more than we had in a long time, meanwhile we listened to waves crashing on the nearby rocky shoreline, not one of our better days and anchorages.

We executed a 6am departure (no mean feat onboard Balvenie) hoping for steady winds to push us south nearly 70 miles to Gloucester.  We farewelled Serafina as we both pulled out of the anchorage, unaware that we would go our separate ways.  We made quite slow time in the light winds, once again we couldn’t match their huge light wind sail and they left us in their wake.  We made the call to break the journey at the Isles of Shoals, a 40 mile run. We had planned to stop here on the way north but wind conditions made it a lee shore so we had carried on, this time conditions were favourable so we pulled in and were lucky to find an empty courtesy mooring buoy for the night, Serafina had carried on further south. 

We settled in to listen to the America's Cup Racing live from San Francisco, the joys of modern technology being able to receive internet coverage in remote places.  Team New Zealand were way in front but Oracle managed a win in the one race of the day.  Hopes were still high of a return of the Cup to New Zealand. 

Just on sunset, as the softening light made the harsh rocky landscape ashore glow, the wind appeared from nowhere, and wouldn’t you know it, it came in at 20 knots from the northwest.  Another lee shore and very bumpy night.  The smaller boats around us were bouncing up and down, burying their bows in the choppy swell, we faired much better but it was another uncomfortable night, our last two anchorages in Maine were our worst.   

Bye Bye Maine, Back to Massachusetts

We had planned to explore this rocky outcrop in the morning but the weather was dreary and cool so we said our final farewell to Maine and sailed south.  Winds were again light so progress was slow until a 20 knot sea breeze kicked in from the south, right on the nose and scuppering plans for an overnight stop in Gloucester.

Good ole Plan B was devised and we headed instead for the nearby tiny village of Rockport, Massachusetts which had excellent protection from the south.  Anchor was down and internet connected for another afternoon of Americas Cup Racing, one win each today, not such a good result but we are still leading – plenty of time yet.

Next morning we were ashore to explore by 9.30am, possibly a record for us.  We realise now why we never go out that early, nothing is open!!!!  We wandered the quaint little lanes of this  tiny village nestled around the compact harbour (too small for us, we were anchored off a sandy adjacent beach).  I imagine on a hot summers weekend it heaves with daytrippers from Boston but on this drizzly autumn weekday morning we had the place to ourselves.

Back onboard we continued our journey south with a short hop just 12 miles around the headland to Gloucester.  Light winds in front of the beam and flattish seas meant for a comfortable sail and a timely arrival to listen again to Americas Cup Racing –racing cancelled, the agony is prolonged!!! 

The early end to racing meant we had time to whizz ashore for a much needed grocery run.  Fresh produce was at rationing levels, time to top up and we figured it would be easier here than in Boston.   Gloucester is very much a normal but pleasant functioning port town, not too much pandering to the tourist market here.  A large fishing boat fleet lines the shore and although there is an excellent harbour walk around the front it surely has that working town feel and smell to it.  Gloucester was also the home port of the fishing boat lost at sea on which the movie The Perfect Storm was based.  A monument in town remembers those that were lost on that and countless other occasions.  

We had an early dinner, easy to do in the USA as the restaurant kitchens seem to never close.  We caught the last of the afternoon sun which finally appeared mid afternoon, whilst sitting overlooking the harbour at The Cape Ann Brewing Company, a small local micro brewery.  We thought it interesting the only alcohol they served was beer, obviously due to the type of licence they have, but it was something we had never come across anywhere before.  Mark decided to leave both the Cucumber and Strawberry with Rhubarb ales for another day and went for the much safer option of a Fisherman’s Ale to accompany his Portuguese Fish Stew. 

Boston Bound

With sunny skies and a northerly wind forecast of 10 – 20 knots it was time to do the final leg of 26 miles to Boston.  We left at 9am as we had our new regular daily fixture of the Americas Cup Racing at 4.15pm to consider, we wanted to get there in plenty of time to see if we could find somewhere ashore showing the live coverage so we could actually watch it on television for a change.

Our downwind sail was the coldest we have ever been at sea on Balvenie, we both had so many layers of clothes on we could barely bend, even the sun seemed to have forgotten to turn its heater on.  We later found out that it had been recorded as the coldest September 17 ever in Boston's history, 44 Fahrenheit or 6.66 Celsius, crickey - timed that well, didn’t we!! 

We made our way into the sheltered waters of Boston harbour early afternoon, Boston International Airport boarders the harbour so we had fun plane spotting as we were overflown by several jets.

We tied to our pre booked mooring, dropped the dinghy, headed ashore, found a nearby bar with helpful staff who found the racing for us and settled down for the action – racing cancelled, too much wind!!!  Oh well we got to watch two earlier races so finally got to see these magnificent craft in action without worrying who would win, much better for the stress levels!!!

Will Team New Zealand Win The 34th Americas Cup???