Sunday, 13 July 2008

Cruising east of Finike ... July 2008

***Tony, Jessica and Mark on the bridge to Paradise Cafe, Adrasan Beach*** ***All the Gulets at Tekirova Beach*** ***Ruins at the ancient city of Phaselis with Mt Solymnus in the background***
03 -12 July 2008

We are killing time waiting for a new hot water cylinder to arrive into Finike. This has been an ongoing problem since Malaysia when it first started leaking. Unfortunately they built the boat around the cylinder and we couldn’t get it out until we got to Thailand and had a big hole sawed in our aft cabin wall. Then we couldn’t get a new cylinder before we left so had the old one repaired. Well that lasted till the Maldives when it started springing new leaks and has been ever since. It wouldn’t be so bad if it just leaked into the bilge but it sits above the generator so leaks down onto it, so we have had all manner of contraptions rigged to catch the water, along with nappies to soak it up. Needless to say the 1100NZD's we are being charged for a new cylinder will be money well spent!!
So while we await its arrival we have taken the time to cruise east and have spent the last 10 days in some lovely spots between here and Tekirova. We were in company with Tony on Tactical Directions for most of it who had Swedish friend Jessica onboard. We spent the 1st two nights at Cavus Liman or Adrasan Beach. This was a big fairly sheltered bay that had a row of beach restaurants and pensions that looked to serve mainly the local market. We had a long walk ashore right to the end of the beach and followed the road and a small stream and discovered about 6 little cafes with wooden platforms built over the stream which housed the tables, chairs, loungers and umbrellas. All a very laid back environment in a delightful setting.
From there we moved onto Cineviz Liman (Liman means bay in Turkish), this was a stunning spot with dramatic steep hills coming straight down to the waters edge, beautiful clear water, almost totally protected from the wind, and a couple of small pebbly beaches ashore to swim to. We had 3 lazy days in there with a mixture of large overnight tour Gulets, day tripper Gulets, small local craft and a few yachts coming and going. The Gulets are large wooden boats, usually schooners but very few using sails, which are used for the tourist market all along the southern and western Turkish coast. There are 100’s of them and we haven’t got to the touristy parts yet!!! We met up again with Annie and Liam off Gone with the Wind for a couple of days which was great, they had just arrived in from Cyprus along with another Australian boat Mercury II and British boat White Rose.
From there we headed a little further north to Tekirova while Tony continued to Kemer to drop Jessica off for her return flight to Sweden.. When we arrived into the bay at Tekirova I counted a least 22 Gulets, it seemed we had found the tourists, we anchored in the southern end of the bay staying as far away from the crowds as possible. By 4pm all but a few small local craft remained, peace had been restored. Tekirova is the site of ancient Phaselis founded in 690BC by Greek colonists and became a busy trading port for the area. We spent three hours ashore in the morning while all was still quiet wandering around the ruins of this harbour town, under the aqueduct arches, through the houses, into the bathhouses, up onto the terraces of the amphitheatre for an uninterrupted view across to Mt Solymnus, then a walk through the pine forest to the necropolis where there are broken sarcophagi lying covered with pinecones. It was a great stopover and gave us this weeks ration of culture!!! By the time we left the bay there were 30 Gulets in there, most tourists just lounging about onboard or swimming, very few seemed interested in the history ashore. We had a great sail back to Cineviz Liman and tucked back in there for another 3 nights, meeting up again with Tony on Tactical Directions, and meeting at last Sarah and GB off American yacht Djarrka who we have heard on the radio all season, great to finally meet and spend a couple of happy hours catching up with them. Yesterday we came the 30 miles back to Finike, we managed to sail all but the 1st 40 minutes, having wind from all directions and up to 23 knots, somewhat challenging but keeps skipper on the ball. Now we will sit and wait for our parts.

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