Fun in the Sun ... Sept 2008

Cruising Skopea Liman … 07 - 11 Sept 2008

***Mornings exercise in Tomb Bay, the view from the tomb***View of the tomb in Tomb Bay***Neil and Barbara in Tomb Bay*** ***Balvenie nestled in Wall Bay***

For the first night in a very long time we had wind all night long in our anchorage at Rhodes, a reminder of the excellent conditions we have on the Turkish coast where the sea breeze kicks in late morning and drops generally early evening.

From Rhodes we headed back northeast and had a comfortable downwind sail right back to the bottom of Skopea Liman where the wind dropped away. Never such a bad thing as we then had a chance to charge the batteries, heat the water and most importantly - cool the alcohol. Our first stop back in this excellent cruising ground was Wall Bay. We found a great spot to nestle into, and anchored stern to attaching to bollards provided on the shoreline. Practice is paying off with this stern to anchoring and having extra sets of hands onboard is invaluable, we were tucked up in no time.

The evenings entertainment was provided by the latecomers jostling for the best spots, complete with all the yelling and shouting that normally accompanies anchoring.

We had the next day at leisure enjoying reading, swimming, kayaking and even squeezed in a walk ashore to stretch our legs. There are some ruins just around the corner in Ruin Bay which are partly submerged and you can kayak through the rooms, going in one door and out the other which was fun. That night after onboard Pimms happy hour we patronized the onshore restaurant for dinner and had pre-ordered the roast leg of lamb, served with potato and rice, plus it included breads and dips for entrée and melon for desert. At 35Lira pp it seems about the average price for these rustic cafes that also provide free mooring docks for those that wish to tie up. Most of the market for these places are the charter boats, away on one or two weeks holiday with a much higher budget than us long term cruisers and generally converting from Pounds or Euros, so they all seem to do quite well during their very short season.
Anchorage Info: 36 38.58N 28 51.06E dropped in 20m stern tied to bollards settled in 7m. Very sheltered, a few little gusts only

Another sunny day dawns and after more water activities it’s time to get another sail in. We had lots of fun in Tony's kayaks with exploring and races around the bay. Mark got a little over enthusiastic and actually managed to flip his which Barbara did well to capture on film (see extra photos below!!!) Skipper and crew raise all the sails and it’s a fast ride in flat water across to Fethiye. We have spent so much time in Fethiye now that we are recognised by the restaurant owners when we walk down the street!!! It is a good spot to top up on a few supplies, look around the interesting old town area and eat out.
Anchorage info: apprx 36 37.46N 29 05.82E 13m mainly mud but with some thick spots of weed. The anchorage is comfortable, dinghy tie up in the marina and generally access to wifi although this time I had no luck (I have an external aerial). Wifi code changes every two weeks, on counter in marina office is yellow leaflet advertising Levante Restaurant. Wifi code is on this leaflet.

We just stayed one night and had another fast sail in flat water, hard on the wind, back across Fethiye Bay into Skopea Liman again, this time we headed for Tomb Bay which came highly recommended and was just beautiful. Two nights there gave us time for more relaxing with Neil and Barbara making the most of the sunshine before heading back to London. The water is still very warm and clear but refreshing, and we even did quite a long walk and climb to explore the Lycian Tombs high above the bay.
Anchorage info: 36 41.64N 28 ?2.00E dropped in 20m, stern tied to one bollard and a tree, settled in 6m, flat water very little wind

We left late afternoon in light winds and motored the few miles to Gocek. It’s only about 20 minutes to Dalaman airport so a good option for drop offs/pick ups. Taxi prices still very expensive though, 45Euro/60Lira one way - everything priced for the shortstay tourist market.
Anchorage info: 36 45.18N 28 56.04E 20-25m good holding. Very busy anchorage with yachts, motor cruisers and gulets. A lot of very fast tender traffic makes for much noise and wash. Try to tuck up in the north east corner as far as poss. New marina being built which will decrease anchorage space even more. Can be exposed in afternoon seabreeze, choppy dinghy ride ashore but calm at night. No wifi but several free ashore (rec Cafe West on front)

We had chosen to pick them up from Marmaris so we could get some good sails in as well. For a week long taste of cruising, sailing, blobbing, swimming, exploring, eating, playing, we think we did about the best mixture you could do around these parts. We really enjoyed Neil and Barbara’s company and had a great time with them onboard. We hope they have gone home with some great memories (besides the blocked toilet – another story on another day!!!!).

Off to Rhodes ... Sept 2008

06 Sept 2008

***Neil, Barbara & Mark on one of the old town walls in Rhodes with the med in the background***Well they did order 2 large beers!!!!***Checking out the boutiques in Rhodes old town***Neil and Barbara in the main square***

With Neil and Barbara having been in Turkey now for 2 nights we decided they needed a change of culture so time for a quick dip into Greece with a trip down to Rhodes. It’s less than 30 miles south of Marmaris so makes for a good spot to top up on all those yummy Greek delicacies, pork products and much much cheaper alcohol. We left with light winds and motored further west along the Turkish coastline in flat seas until the wind started to pick up. We then headed south towards Rhodes at a slightly kinder angle but still had the strengthening afternoon meltimi pretty much on the nose for most of the trip but with seas under 1m so comfortable enough. Down came the Turkish flag as we closed in on Rhodes and up went the Greek one. Because this was a one night stopover we stayed outside the main harbour areas and anchored off a small beach just 20 minutes walk from Rhodes Old Town.

Again we had the anchorage to ourselves, it was a short dinghy ride ashore and we left the dinghy safely on the beach while we set off to explore.
The walk into town went through the “car repairs” area and we started to question if this had been a good idea. Once we hit the main harbour area – jam packed with 4 cruise ships and found an entrance through the old city walls a new world opened up in front of us. Rhodes town has been around since 408BC, with plenty of wars and sieges to add colour to its history.

The magnificent walled old town has been beautifully restored and is very well maintained. The shopping/eating area is a “cruise ship passengers” emporium of upmarket ‘designer label’ boutiques, craft shops, galleries, duty free shops, restaurants and cafes, and with the passengers of 4 cruise ships packed onto the narrow streets it was very very busy, but this didn’t detract at all from its charm. We had a great walk around through the alleys and around the wall then stopped for a drink on a roof top terrace where the boys had a foot of beer each at inflated cruise ship prices (or are we just used to Turkish prices now).

We enjoyed a traditional mix of Greek food in a lovely courtyard setting for dinner and ambled back through the rather seedy car repairs area to Balvenie. We never really like leaving her in an anchorage alone with the dinghy on the beach, but both were just where they should be when we got back. Back onboard we cracked open a bottle of Balvenie Doublewood 15 year old Scotch, that Neil and Barbara had spotted ashore and kindly bought for us and ended the excellent evening with a nightcap.
Anchorage info: 36.25.60N 28.14.20E 6m shallows up slowly, sandy bottom off beach. Possiblity of anchoring inside breakwater (unfinished marina?) just north. Over 20knts daytime, around 15knts overnight but comfortable and calm water. Bali Hai advised ok snorkelling off shoal area by breakwater but we didn't investigate

Dalaman Airport & Marmaris Bay ... Sep 2008

04 September 2008

We have my cousin Neil and his wife Barbara arriving onboard at 1am from London so we are getting organised to go sailing for a week with them around the Marmaris/Rhodes/Fethiye area so will update everything when we are back in Fethiye for a couple of days. The sun is still shining and its forecast up to 20 knots and 35degrees today, excellent!!!!!!!
Anchorage Info: 36.49.53N 28.18.85E 12m mud - good holding Little choppy if strong afternoon sea breeze. Closer to Yacht Marine also puts you close to resort (watersports, music etc) Access to Yacht Marine Wifi (no password needed), dinghy ashore to YM. Dolmus to town half hourly 2.50L each, each way. Chanderly, supermarket, showers, toilets, swimming pool and upmarket restaurant at marina.

Dalaman Airport Information … Sept 2008
We decided it was easier to rent a car to go and collect Neil and Barbara from Dalaman airport which is the one airport that covers this whole region. It’s not actually far by boat but it’s around 120 km’s by car so quite a distance. All the flights seem to arrive and leave late at night, so we got our car delivered at 11am and did a trip into town for some last minute provisioning, met up with Sarah and GB off Djarrka and Tony off Tactical Directions for lunch in Marmaris then back to Balvenie still at anchor outside Yacht Marine to get things looking shipshape. We left Marmaris around 6.30pm and stopped enroute for dinner and arrived at Dalaman around 10pm, in plenty of time for their 10.45pm flight. The airport has obviously been designed for holiday traffic only, there is really no access permitted inside to even wait for or see off any body, luckily the weather is good, as there is an open café in the carpark and nothing else except an ATM machine!! They arrived on time and we were back on Balvenie by 1am. It wasn’t a bad drive, the road ok.
Airport info: We got a small car from Koral Travel for 80Lira (special rates now for winter!!!) and needed 50Lira fuel for the journey, petrol is currently 3.40Lira a litre, one of the most expensive in the world. You can organise a transfer through the marina (either Netsel or Yacht Marine) for 65Euro - about 104Lira, I think it will take up to 8 people – cost per transfer not per person, and they have a book you an put your details into. The car was best for us as we got all our heavy shopping done and we wanted to meet them at the airport.

They arrived laden with all sorts of goodies for us, from much needed Marmite for skippers morning toast, Dijon and Colemans Mustard, duty free alcohol and a selection of magazines and papers to get us up to date. Thanks guys!!!

05 September 2008
After a well earned nights sleep and a slow start to the morning we went ashore and dropped off the car keys, said goodbye to Tony off Tactical Directions who flies back to Thailand next week for winter. He has very kindly lent us his 2 kayaks to play with until we go into the marina so we are looking forward to lots of fun and some exercise on them. With us all back onboard and settled we decided to start the weeks adventure with a sail around Marmaris Bay, up into the old town area and then had a pleasant but unpredictable downwind trip outside Marmaris Bay. We anchored stern to in a little cove just north of Gokce Limani, we didn’t find it in our old guide book but it was a lovely spot and the bullets shooting down the bay kept missing us. We had our own anchorage for the first time in Turkey, a relaxing dinner onboard and a very peaceful night with just a slight roll.
Anchorage info: 36.45.77N 28.16.02E Dropped in 17m backed up to 7m stern lines to rocks, sheltered in settled conditions with afternoon seabreeze

A few days in Marmaris ... Sep 08

03 September 2008

Currently we are anchored outside Yacht Haven Marina in Marmaris South Western Turkey. We are just here for a few days. We have booked into Netsel Marina in Marmaris town for winter starting 01 November so will be coming back here for about 5 months. At the mo we are sorting out the boat as we are lucky to have visitors coming during September/October. The first arrive on Thursday night, my cousin Neil and his wife Barbara who live in London, so we are busy getting Balvenie ship-shape, moving her from passage mode to entertaining mode. I have been having a major clean out and Balvenie now weighs less and there are even empty lockers. Still it does help not having to provision food, drinks and spares for an Indian ocean crossing. Supermarket and chandlerys are aplenty around here!!!!

I have posted CHRISTMAS IN THE SURINS .. DEC 07. It's a little overdue but still making our way through our journey and hope to eventually get everything we have done on the blog, bear with us.

Mark still promises to do "The Skippers Cruising Notes" - on how it really was!!!!! I am still waiting.

Sheltered Waters of Skopea Liman ... Aug 2008

19 - 29 August 2008

We have finally managed to prise ourselves away from the sheltered anchorage at Fethiye, with all those great little affordable cafes, big screen televisions for all the sport Mark could watch and reasonable wifi access free at anchor, to say nothing of the sun shining everyday, oh well - time to move on.

Our first stop over here was at Boynuz Buku, the bay shown in the photo on the left. We met up again with Gone with the Wind, Tactical Directions and Ascension and enjoyed being out in a quite sheltered bay again with clear water and good friends. There is a dock ashore with free tie up if you dine there. It looked pretty flimsy but looked to have good depth and there were plenty of boats using it.
Anchorage info: 36.42.66N 28.53.79E 22m some stern to but we swung in the middle along with several other boats. Rustic restaurant and dock ashore. Walk up gravel road, ok for some exercise and think there is a walk to waterfalls but didn't find it. A couple of fresh water creeks some talk of bad mossies but ok while we were there

After a few nights it was time to explore further and moved around a couple of bays into Sarsala Cove. It is another lovely spot but this time everywhere was too deep for us to anchor out and it was time to get into med mooring. For our 1st real attempt we didn't do too bad, we didn't do too good either but we got the anchor set and the new floating stern lines attached where we wanted so not a bad result. We met up the following day with friends off NZ yacht Baracca who we met in Fethiye and had a very productive afternoon with Emerald Lady who are seasoned med cruisers and gave us plenty of info on must see spots along the way. In our excitement of successfully med mooring I didn't take down our anchorage details.

It was time to make a move onto Marmaris, and we decided to do it in 2 hops, first a short one around onto one of the bays on the southern peninsular of Skopea Liman. We ended up in the small bay on the right (north) of Kizil-Kuyruk Koyu, a delightful small bay with a couple of little peebly beaches, well treed, very scenic, thats it in the photo on the left. Balvenie looks rather small next to the gulets!! Dinghy around to the bigger bay and take path on far right up the hill to some reasonable ruins and good views, partly in shade about 15minutes up, reasonable path. We had our first experience of "nude yachting" in here with an Israeli yacht anchored next to us. Firstly the chap on board went skinny dipping, not much harm in that, but the following morning when they went to leave he prepared the sails and stood up at the bow raising the anchor all in the nuddy. Oh well, it was hot ... each to their own!!!

Anchorage info: 36.37.30N 28.52.08E dropped 20m stern tied to rocks, settled in 15m. Our rock came away (it looked solid enough when I tied it), since then we have put 2 lines ashore and tried to find trees instead. We just pulled up on the anchor but if it had happened during the night or if there had been more wind it may have got a little messy!!

The sail from here across to Marmaris will always be on the nose, unless you are very very lucky. We had up to 20knots and were able to sail the entire way but it was very tight and very wet, not one of our better days but we have made it to Marmaris.

Waiting in Fethiye ... Aug 2008

01 - 18 Aug 2008
CLICK ON EITHER PHOTO TO ENLARGE ***Lycian Rock Tombs set in the cliff just behind downtown Fethiye***The culprit watermaker part - lighter is to give some idea of size!!!!***

The good news is that the watermaker part has finally arrived. This little piece of plastic with shipping from Swtizerland (quite close to Turkey!) has cost $295NZD and we will treasure it dearly, lets just hope that when skipper finishes fitting it, we will have freshly made water again and no more big big drips. Latest moral to the story is if you want parts sent to Turkey, well frankly, just try and do without them, or get someone to bring them, or fly somewhere and get them yourself!!! If you really really have to; and you are in Fethiye DONT use DHL, they don't have an office here (besides the marina staff telling us to use them), use UPS or FedEx. So now we have our part but there is a tri nations rugby game on tomorrow between New Zealand and South Africa so we best stay to support the All Blacks, whats another day!!!!

We have actually taken some time out from just waiting and done some more sightseeing. The Lycian Rock Tombs in the photo are just on the cliff face behind the harbour area and are quite impressive for a little excursion. Then a couple of days ago we caught a dolmus (minivan) and went to Kayakoy. In past history this present day "ghost town" of around 2000 stone houses was settled by Ottoman-Greeks who were relocated to Greece after the Turkish War of Independence. This was around 1920 when all the Greek Orthodox Ottomans were moved to Greece and the Muslim Ottomans were moved from Greece to Turkey. The numbers weren't even though and no Muslims settled in this village so over the years it has decayed away, with help from the frequent earthquakes that occur in these parts. It was all a somber sight and well worth the visit. For those of you that have read Louis de Bernieres' novel "Birds without Wings", this was this village that provided the inspiration for Eskibahce the village in his novel. Unfortunately I went out without my camera so the scenes from this haunting location are committed only to memory.

The days don't seem to be much hotter than July was but the nights are not cooling off as much at the moment. Last night saw 32degrees celcius in our cabin at midnight. We have now taken to putting our water spray bottle in the fridge (previously left at room temperature) during the day and when we go to bed we spray ourselves down and turn the fan on full and try to lower our body temperature. Mark is constantly melting, whereby I am still enjoying it especially knowing that for the first time in five years we are going to experience a winter this year, long may the gloriously hot, cloudless, sunny days remain!

It's 18 August today, and we are seriously thinking about leaving!!! We have been enjoying the Olympics, the quaint little port area, the cheap restaurants we have found, plus its a great secure anchorage, but can't stay here forever so maybe today will be the day to leave. Update at 5pm, after a busy morning provisioning we have decided to stay another night!!!!
19 August 12.40pm, sea breeze just kicked in, we are off cruising again at last.

Some days are diamonds - some days are just horrible ... August 2008

***Bread delivery in Kekova Roads, looks like a tough job!!!*** *** Balvenie tucked up in Kalkan***

01 August 2008

July was great, but August has not got off to such a good start. We left Yesilkoy Liman reasonably early as the cruising guide states that when the prevailing westerly wind builds there can be a nasty chop as there is a strong current running the other direction. Things started ok, but it turned into one of those days when sailing is just no fun at all. Leave anchorage in 10knots - all sails up, near first headland gusting 25knots - put reef in main, clear headland nice breeze 15 knots - main back up, wind comes round on nose start aiming for Libya, tack back into shore wind comes around with us and builds - reef back in ...... this coastline has 7 headlands so the above scenerio just kept happening over and over again, I suppose 7 times. We finally approached the last headland which we needed to clear to get into Fethiye Bay, but do you think we could get around it, tacking in and out and going nowhere, I was well past my use by date and declared to Skipper that if we did not make it on the next tack I was jumping overboard. I actually thought he might be pleased with this suggestion and just keep tacking all afternoon!!!! but maybe he had just had enough too and the engine came on and we motorsailed round the final cape, expecting a nice beam reach once around and up to Fethiye across the bay.

Once around the cape the wind died to 5 knots but we had a 2 1/2 metre slop, couldn't even really call it a swell as it just came in from all directions tossing us around like a cork. Our first option of heading for Fethiye was abandoned in favour of a closer anchorage in Gemiler Bay and after a very uncomfortable motorsail we finally got into some flatter water and anchored the evening in Karacaoren Buku. The local restaurant has laid some moorings and assists in attaching to them, but we had heard that dinner was a set menu of 30Lira pp which for Turkey is quite expensive so just anchored a little further out. The whole bay was affected by the swell coming in and we had the rolliest night we can remember for a couple of years.

Anchorage info: 36.32.47 29.03.19 in 16m holding ok, very rolly but sheltered

We left early the following morning, the swell was still there but had died down somewhat and we had a reasonably pleasant motor around into Fethiye where we have anchored just outside the marina in mud which is rumoured to set like superglue.

We have met up with old friends here and made some new, the social scene has been rather hectic with outings to the movies ("Wanted" - not recommended!!), dinner at the Fish Market where you buy your fresh fish from the vendors then take it to the nearby restaurants for cooking, Happy Hours (nights) aboard Gone with the Wind that ended with the guitars out and a sing along, and several other excursions. We have certainly slipped into Med time, with dinner after dark around 9pm, off to bed around midnight and a somewhat slow start each morning. Its hitting 40degrees now each day, today the wind is very hot also, but it's August and we did expect it, so we are taking it easy.

Anchorage info: apprx 36.37.46N 29.05.82E 13m mainly mud with some think spots of weed. The anchorage is comfortable, a slight chop in the afternoon sea breeze but generally calm at night. You need to keep clear of the small 'Sunsail' dock (especially with the charter boats returning in a strong seabreeze and backing in!!!!) and also there is a coastguard jetty to be aware of. Try and anchor between Coastguard and the main marina to keep out of the Coastguard ships way. Every now and then they ask yachts to move. Dinghy tie up in the marina and generally access to wifi although it comes and goes a little (I have an external aerial). Wifi code changes every two weeks, on counter in marina office is yellow leaflet advertising Levante Restaurant. Wifi code is on this leaflet.

We are waiting now for a part for our watermaker, it deserves its own blog really but I won't bore you. I will just say that we started trying to source this part from Katadyn in Switerland when we arrived in Cyprus. It finally left Zurich yesterday, it is a 25SFR round piece of plastic that weighs around 100grams, the DHL courier charge to Turkey is 194SFR. (I suspect we may have got a return flight cheaper and gone and collected it) This morning I checked the tracking to see where it was and it is having a problem being cleared by Turkey Customs, they didn't call us so I'm not sure how long it would have sat there, so we called DHL Istanbul who have told us we need to go to Istanbul (it's only 600 miles away) to clear it. We have told them that because it is valued at under 100Euro's it doesn't need customs clearance, they are DHL, shouldn't they know this? Meanwhile the debate is going on ................. and we wait!!!!!!!!!

No idle hands though, the ensuite sink blocked last night, and the good ole rubber plunger just didn't clear it so this morning Mark has taken all the hosing off underneath it and found the culprit. A little plastic cap had fallen down the plug hole and was a perfect fit to block it completely, oh well the pipes and cupboard have had a good clean.

Yesterday Greece - Today Turkey again ... end July 2008

***Mark outside one of the many rug shops in Kas***Welcome to Greece, Balvenie on the wall at Kastellorizo***Kastellorizo Harbour from the other side Mark with small fishing boat*** Balvenie in tiny Kalkan harbour***

26 - 31 July 2008
We are having a truly wonderful time moving west along the south Turkish coast from Finike. We have been overwhelmed by the amount of stunning spots, tiny villages, tourists towns, excellent ruins and great anchorages we have discovered so far, and everyone keeps saying it is better further west. Today we are in the small harbour of Kalkan which is probably the cutest little "tourist town" we have ever come across. It is very steep and the small lanes head skywards, there are very tasteful shops, hundreds of restaurants all with bourganvillia covered roof terraces affording a spectacular view out over the med, the whole place has a very nice atmosphere.

Yesterday morning we left Kastellorizo which is a Greek Island about 15 miles east of here. We anchored stern to in the harbour in front of all the small cafes and bars, it was another amazing spot which we loved. So all in all life is good at the moment, the sun shines every day, it is getting a little hotter but still manageable and the tourist season has certainly kicked in, charter boats abound but it all makes for great entertainment - always something to watch. Will update more when we get wifi again.

Now we are in Fethiye, getting up to date again. We left Kekova Roads and sailed to windward along the coast, it's what you have to do here as all the prevailing winds at this time of year are from the west, or northwest, which ofcourse is always where we want to go. We have certainly honed our tacking skills and are happy to sail when we have enough wind, but tacking with light winds is soul destroying for at times you really do feel you are just going back where you came from. My soul has been destroyed a few times along this coast but in fairness we have, for the most part, enjoyed the sailing so far.

Our next stop was Kas, the small harbour in Kas is mainly for fishing boats, gulets and small local tour boats and at 70 Lira a night isn't such an attractive option so we anchored in a bay about 1 mile south called Bayindir Liman which is mostly around 20 metres deep. We stayed a couple of nights and had a few hours ashore in Kas which is a lovely town. We had been here before when we came by hire car but enjoyed spending some more time, its quite touristy but is quite upmarket and has some lovely little lanes, cafes and rug shops.
Anchorage info: 36.10.67N 29.38.58E about 22m , some boats anchored stern to.

From Kas it was time to put the Turkish flag and Liras away for a couple of day and it was back out with the Euro (left over from Cyprus) and hoist our new Greek flag. Yes we were off to Greece, and it was only 3 miles away!!!

There is the small Greek Island of Kastellorizo just off the coast here, 70 miles from its closest Greek neighbour of Rhodes and it is a popular spot for those wanting a quick change of country. We had been advised by other cruisers not to anchor in the main harbour but to go to the next bay called Mandraki which we did. The holding isn't too good in there, there is a thick layer of weed, but found a little spot and settled in. The wind picked up during the afternoon so we decided to stay onboard until it dropped, as it's a small bay with lots of big crunchy rocks around the edge. We had a nice swim and leisurely afternoon, but as the afternoon progressed the winds increased and by 8pm we had over 25knots so decided to up anchor and either try to anchor in the main harbour or follow our track back to Kas before dark. We entered the main harbour and we are still not sure if the wind just stopped or if it was much more sheltered but calmness overcame us and we tucked up next to a couple of other anchored yachts and wondered why we hadn't done this a few hours ago.
Anchorage info: 1)Mandraki 36.09.08N 29.36.07E about 18m, loads of weed spots so poor holding. There is another bay to the east but we found poor holding in there also.
2)Co-ordinates not recorded for anchorage in main harbour but just tucked up in the far right corner as far as we could in 10 metres. They do have cruise ships and the Rhodes ferry come into the harbour so not sure how long you could anchor in here. We had no problem overnight

This is now a tiny settlement which has had way more than its far share of tragedies over the years, severely bombed during the world wars, devastated by fire that wiped out over 2/3rds of the houses and most of those still standing then turned to rubble in an earthquake. There is no water on the island and apparantely it is almost a ghost town during winter. However during summer it has been revitalized by many expat Greeks that went to live in Australia and have now come back and bought little waterfront cottages to spend their summers (Australia's winters) . It is slowly being turned into a place definately worth stopping at. There are some good restaurants along the waterfront and we went ashore and sampled our first Greek dinner at the Olive Garden which was excellent. Next morning we up anchored and went stern-to on the harbour wall which was free as long as you ate ashore, not a hardship!! There is a very good little museum here and also a mosque which has the history of Kastellorizo well displayed, they also have a 20 minute video on at 12noon which was excellent. It showed photos of the harbour in the early 1900's and then now. It is not many places that were booming then and empty now, but this is one. This was an excellent stopover, no issue at all of checking in/out, just change courtesy flags.

We left the harbour at Kastellorizo and went down the eastern shoreline and around the bottom for a little tikitour and to find the "grotto" which is reported to be very good but were unsuccessful in spotting it so we set sail westwards to Kalkan and had an ok sail with not too many tacks. The closest sheltered anchorage is 2 miles away which is really too far in the dinghy for us so we looked at anchoring outside the breakwater where a couple of other boats were, although the depth was ok it is very exposed if any wind comes up and it was also quite rolly. So still feeling confident from our Greek Med mooring we decided to get some more practice in and entered the small harbour and "parked" where directed by the harbourmaster. We timed it quite well, about half an hour later it was like Picadilly Circus with yachts, gulets, fishing boats and tour boats arriving at once. It seemed quite full, but they just kept on coming and no one was turned away, it was tight but ok. We decided not to plug into shore power, a smart move as we later noticed smoke coming out of the dockside power unit. The 3 boats plugged in all had small fires onboard as a result, not a good thing - they were all charter boats so weren't so worried, they were more concerned about would the hair dryer, toaster and fan still work! The harbour fee including water was 60 Lira for us, expensive but we could not have come in here otherwise and Kalkan by night is a true delight.

As I have already said above in the first paragraph we thought this was one of the cutest little tourist towns we have been to, its attractive by day and vibrant at night. We would have liked to have stayed longer but its a little too expensive for us, so next day after a morning walk around we left the harbour and went the 2 miles to Yesilkoy Liman, a lovely sheltered bay just to the west of Kalkan. This was the first night since our arrival in to Turkey that we had wind during the night, not much but we have become to expect no wind and calm seas each night.
Anchorage info: 36.15.64N 29.22.23E around 18m in middle of bay, holding ok, a little swell

Beautiful Kekova Roads... Jul 2008

21 - 26 July 2008

CLICK ON ANY PHOTO TO ENLARGE
***Enjoying the long balmy med evenings - Having our first bar-b-que onboard we think since NZ, *** ***Looking down to Kale Koy from the ancient Selchuk Fort*** ***Looking the other way towards Ucagiz, Balvenie is closest on the left*** ***The Sarcophagi at Ucagiz, there are hundreds***

We didn’t really know what to expect along this coast. So many people we had spoken to have said Turkey has some of the best cruising in the world. Calm nights and mornings, afternoon sea breezes, scenic bays, excellent affordable restaurants, cute villages, amazing ruins and shore excursions, snug harbours, the list of positives goes on and on. So we had reasonably high expectations but have been disappointed before so came with an open mind and hoped for the best. So far all our expectations have been exceeded . This part of Turkey is amazing and we have only come about 20 miles from Finike!!!

We left Finike just before the sea breeze kicked in and had a lovely sail to the far eastern anchorage of Kekova Roads. Kekova Roads is the name of a long thin island about 4 miles long which lies west to east about 1 mile off the Turkish Mainland. There are several other little islands within the sheltered waters and loads of great little bays, a few little beaches, a sunken city, a dominant fortress, sarcophagi tumbling down to the waters edge and a couple of cute villages. All in all it’s easy to while away a few days and just enjoy it all.

We stopped the first night at the most eastern end in behind Ashil Adasi with several other yachts and had a wonderful still evening so decided to dust the cobwebs off the bar-b-que. Next morning we took Dougie the Dinghy ashore to some ruins and had a wander around, there are just ruins everywhere along this coast, I guess we will get “ruined out” but at the moment we are enjoying them all.
Anchorage info: Ashil Adasi/Gokkaya Liman 36.12.65N 29.53.66E Sheltered and flat water but excellent conditions

Back on Balvenie and a short motor along the channel. We passed the magnificent castle which sits high above Kale Koy dominating the hillside and would once have kept a very watchful eye over all the comings and goings below.
Mooring info: There are a couple of docks in Kale Koy (can be hard to see as many gulets may be at anchor off) with about 8 metre depths that you can tie alongside and use water and power, one had free wifi, as long as you eat at the corresponding restaurant, meals were between 10 – 15 Lira pp. We didn’t find these until we had a dinghy excursion there and anchored around the corner in an inner bay called Ucagiz Liman. This is a totally enclosed bay and although the water was murky we still had our daily Med dip.

We dinghyed around to Kale Koy late in the afternoon and got intercepted by a local woman, Angel who basically gave us a walking tour and escorted us to the top of the castle. It was impossible to not have someone go with you, there was one with every tourist, all with their basket of wares then at the top they show their goodies to sell. Unfortunately Angel only had shawls/wraps, something that I have bought a few of along the way and just don’t need any more of, especially not at 25Lira each, so the outstanding view from the top was somewhat overshadowed by my guilt at not parting with any money when she had walked all the ay up with us. Kale Koy is a great little place though, with cute waterfront restaurants, ruins underwater, sarcophagi lying in the shallows and a lovely outlook, we stayed for a couple of drinks as the sun dipped over the hills , then got back home though the rocks before dark.

The village closest to us at anchor, Ucagiz, looked flat and uninspiring and very busy with the tour boats going out to Kale Koy but we decided to go ashore in the morning to have a look and get some bread. Turkish bread is great, its everywhere, big white Vienna type loaves, lovely and soft, keeps well and only around .60Lira a loaf, yummy. Well Ucagiz was really quite nice, in between the bus and boat loads of tourists it settled down to a little local village and we enjoyed walking round the winding streets behind the waterfront.
Anchorage info: The one in the photo on the left was our first anchorage in here. 36.11.67N 29.51.23E, very sheltered, totally enclosed inner bay. Reasonable dinghy ride to KaleKoy if you decide not to go on the dock there.

We moved on in the afternoon, another 2 miles to Polemos Buku where we had had a restaurant recommended, it was a windy afternoon with the wind whipping through the anchorage and it didn’t die down till after dark so we had dinner onboard. We had a few nervous moments late in the afternoon with charter yachts coming into the anchorage under full sail in over 25knots and then going upwind of us to drop sails, very entertaining but totally unnecessary.
Anchorage info: 36.09.92N 29.48.23E Wind bullets over the hill, flat enough water

Next morning strong winds were forecast for another 2 days so we sailed with the headsail downwind for the huge 2 miles journey back to Ucagiz and settled in. We amused ourselves by watching all the comings and goings of the charter boats, gullets, bread delivery boat, ferries, and went ashore a couple of times for drinks in a couple of places with free slow internet (better than nothing), one was a treehouse place, set up the hill and flies a mini red hot air balloon. Health and Safety would never let this place operate in many countries, its all different levels built upwards through some trees and very rickety looking but very cool.We did a quick mercy dash one afternoon when a teenager off a neighbouing charter boat had gone ashore to get some assistance as they could not get their anchor up. Her dinghy was t-boned by a small incoming ferry and she ended up in the water with the dinghy motor still going, round and round her in circles. Her parents were obviously quite distraught watching all this from their boat with no means of getting to her, so we zoomed over to them as quick as Dougie with his little 2.5hp outboard will go and went to the rescue. Luckily she was not hurt but it is a reminder to us all how things can turn turtle. Talking of turtles, we saw some in the bay. There are a couple of docks here also that you can tie up to, 1 advertises 4 metre depth but we believe it is only 1.5 metre – we didn’t test it!!! I should also mention that if you have dinner at Hassans restaurant the next morning they deliver a loaf of bread to the boat, not bad aye! There are close on 100 sarcophagi lying around here, through the village and on the shoreline, it’s a great place to explore and we enjoyed our time here.
Anchorage info: anchored further into the bay this time at 36.11.64N 29.50.66E flat water in strong winds

No Scurvy and No more Nappies ... July 2008

CLICK ON ANY PHOTO TO ENLARGE ***Mornings shopping at the market*** ***The hole in the wall and the old cylinder*** ***Plumbing by brail - Admiral eyes direct Skippers hands*** ***New blue cylinder***

12 - 20 July 2008

At last the hot water cylinder arrived, only a week late. I didn’t mind at all because at last I am in Finike for the Saturday market so while Mark starts disconnecting and removing the old leaky cylinder I get to check out all the wonderful fresh produce at the market. There is still a thriving market culture in Turkey and the market is in different towns in the region on different days of the week, it was huge, not only with fresh produce but clothing, shoes, hardware, carpets, fabrics, crockery – basically the shopping mall comes to town once a week and everyones needs are catered to. We planned to leave the following day so I filled the fridges with fruit and vegetables, as you can see from the photo we will not be getting scurvy anytime soon. All the goodies displayed, plus a few extras that did not quite fit in the photo cost 18Lira, about $20NZD/$15USD and were all very fresh and tasted just great, especially the peaches. Sadly the end of the cherry season was upon us, they had been sensational and at 4Lira per kilo an absolute bargain.

Meanwhile Mark has made good progress on the cylinder, the old is out, the support shelving strengthened and the new put in place. It is 40degrees inside Balvenie, he is trying to attach the hosing by brail and 3 out of 4 are in place. But as with anything when he has foolishly uttered those words “this looks pretty straightforward” before starting there is a hiccup. The 4th connection is different, none of our joiners will work, the nearby chandlery has closed and its Sunday tomorrow. Time for a swim and several cold beers!!!! After much more searching through our spares and with the kind help of fellow cruiser Chris off Billabong the cylinder installation was completed on Sunday. The nappies are removed as at last there are no longer drips to catch and finally we made plans to start cruising West along the Turkish coast.

So just what do we do all day???... July 2008

CLICK ON ANY PHOTOS TO ENLARGE THEM ***Mark with hose at the top of the mast*** ***Was that a seagull with bad diarrhoea or just the first splats of dirty brown hitting the deck as he cleans above*** ***Dinner out in Finike with Bill and Tony, the big round thing in the middle is turkish bread, its full of hot air and its fun bursting it. It also tastes excellent with the accompanying dips***

12 - 20 July 2008
Another day and no new hot water cylinder. Its day 19 since ordering, eta was 10-14 days, oh well, this is Turkey, and its a great place, beautiful weather, lovely people and the food is just so good, what's the hurry to move.

We anchored outside Finike Marina when we returned from our little tour east. We had 5 nights out there, its pretty comfortable and we could bring the dinghy into the marina to come ashore, but yesterday strong winds were forecast so we decided to splash out and come in and tie up for a few nights until the Water cylinder arrives. We are all snug, power plugged in, wifi booming in, step ashore and endless water on tap. Shame not to take advantage of all that water really, although we have cleaned and cleaned the boat since leaving the Red Sea the dirt just keeps coming out so Mark decided to attack it from the top, so up the mast in the bosuns chair he went, with me on the electric winch sending him on his way - right to the top - along with hose, can you see him, that little spec in the photo. And what about the mess he made, look at the first few drops that came down, yuk, soon the whole deck, basically everything on the boat including me was just covered in brown sludge. After a couple of hours we had Mark back down to sea level we then hoisted the mainsail to clean it. It had done an excellent job of catching much of the brown sludge to add to the layers of Red Sea dust it already had accumulated, so as it went up, more muddy water came down, oh what a mess. Anyway we hosed down all the sail, pulling it up and dropping it more times than we should have, something went wrong with our planning and strategy and we sort of did it all back to front, but eventually it was done, dried and lower just before the wind kicked it. By then it was definitely time for lunch and to admire the work we had done, but only if we looked upwards because deck level wasn't pretty. So all afternoon was spent by me finishing the deck, stainless steel, all the dodger, even got the clear zip-in windows out attached them and polished them up. Meanwhile Mark was in the dinghy and washed then cleaned and polished the hull, it is gleaming. Somewhere inbetween I took down all the mosquito screens which I'm sure had been black at one stage but all looked chocolate brown, amazing they are all black again and the air can even get through them again now that all the dust has gone. Plus I even managed a load of laundry by hand, and replaced some bungies that didn't bungy anymore, and did I mention that I broke my toe this morning!!!!!, nasty cracking noise and we have been watching it change colour all day long, oh well life goes on!!!! Then about 6pm we walked over to the swimming area here and cooled off, followed by a nice long shower, then we met friends Bill off Mariah and Chris and KT off Billabong for a few well earned drinks ashore and finished off the evening with excellent "pides" (turkish thin and crispy pizzas) for dinner, at 5Lira (NZD5.50 or Euro2.50) for the 2 of us why eat in. So phew, no wonder we are sitting here at 11.30pm feeling total wrecks. Maybe we will take tomorrow off for good behavior!!! Still the end result it outstanding, after 2 full days of cleaning and polishing Balvenie is absolutely gleaming, and we need a holiday.

Skippers Malaysia-Med Cruising Notes

SKIPPER HAS HIS SAY (AT LAST)

Advice (for what its worth) and things I would do different if we did the Indian Ocean again.

1) Make sure your engine is in the best shape of its life !!
2) Make sure you are seriously spared up big time !!. Assume there is nothing between Thailand and Turkey. Get as much as you can in Langkawi. I waited until Phuket to get my Volvo and Yanmar spares/filters etc and paid up to 4 times more than I would in NZ or Oz. All the ports you visit support commercial and fishing fleets so there is always a local guy to help as long as you have the bits on board.
3) Have a very very close look at the booze situation. If you miss Sri Lanka and India you can’t buy any booze until Eygpt . Most boats ran out this year. Just think 3 cans a day (ha ha) for 5 months equals 450 cans equals 19 cases!!. etc etc. Tonic was not easily available (even in Phuket they had run out!!)
4) Have plenty photocopies of ships papers, passports and crew lists. Our boat stamp was well received. Need plenty passport photos too.
5) We have steps up to our first spreaders. These were invaluable on several occasions, we would not have been able to access some anchorages without them. So if you haven’t got them maybe consider fixing ratlines to get that extra height for visibility coming into the reef anchorages.
6) Handy to have a few jerry jugs. You don’t want to tie up to the wharfs - ugly ugly.
7) Don’t get too hung up on food supplies. There are first world supermarkets in Sri Lanka, Oman, Aden, Hurghada and Ismailia. Top up big time in Egypt its much cheaper than Cyprus, Israel or Turkey.
8) Unless you check- in at Malle, Maldives and pay a ton of money for a cruising permit (No time for cruising anyway you’re on a mission !!!) use Uligamu in northern Maldives as a pit stop only for a few days. Checking-in and out, getting fuel and water is a breeze, but you are not allowed to visit any other islands. Rest and move on. The best stuff is ahead of you.
9) Make sure you have a fishing line out closing on Salalah, plenty plenty Mahi Mahi!!!. Couldn’t haul them in fast enough. Good fishing right through till Egypt
10) Stay close to Yemen coast 15 miles or so, don’t miss Al Mukalla or Sana’a. Don’t leave until you’ve smoked a hubble bubble pipe in a Bedouin tent!!
12) No need to get involved in some military style formation synchronized motor sailing exercise. Just hang out with a couple of other boats and keep in sight during the day and maybe close up at night. Honestly we were as apprehensive as anybody about pirate alley but we ended up stopping along the Yemen coast and felt reasonably comfortable moving along the coast line with a few very friendly Yemeni patrols zooming by from time to time lobbing fish on to the boat!!
13) It is true. If it’s blowing 20knots in Aden its blowing 40knots in the Bab al Mandeb Strait. Gets very lumpy but its down hill and things flatten out after a few hours going north.
14) We more or less day sailed to Eygpt and worked our way north up the west coast in side many reefs and islands often sailing close hauled in lightish winds and flat water. Easy peasy!! This takes more time but be patent don’t push it. Just keep nibbling away. Reefs are very obvious.
15) North of Massawa – BEWARE!! An unexpected solid southerly is followed by a few hours of no wind is followed by a howler from the north. 3 times we were enjoying wing on wing sailing thinking the Red Sea is a breeze then the wind died and we motored for a few hours only to be stopped in our tracks by big northerly. Take the southerly but don’t be greedy and head for safe haven during the lull.
16) Don’t miss Massawa and Suakin
17) We only got adverse conditions a couple of times, both further north at night when you are forced to do a couple of overnighters so have a plan B.
18) I don’t mean to be a negative Nigel but the Red Sea isn’t done until its done. The toughest part for us was the last 180 miles from Hurghada up the Gulf of Suez. We were a tad late in the season by then (early June).
19) Fill up with diesel in Egypt USD0.18c a litre. Turkey is well over USD2.00 a litre, Greece currently 1.15Euro a litre.
20) Lastly have some "pirate packs" onboard. We put together water (or fizzy drinks), cigarettes, biscuits/cookies and basically anything else surplus we wanted to get rid of (old liferaft supplies!!) and threw them to the boats that came for a look. They were so grateful, and if you give them something they will then leave you alone (especially in Sri Lankan waters). Baseball caps were a winner too.

The journey from Thailand to Turkey was the most amazing season of our adventure so far. There is no doubt it’s a long haul and you are always aware of the clock ticking. The urge to get the whole journey behind you is strong when you leave Asia but try to fight it and spend time in these places. We left Nai Harn Bay on Phuket 21 December 2007 and ended up stopping in the Surins 1 week, Andamans 3 weeks , Sri Lanka 12 days, Maldives 1 week, Oman 10 days, 3 weeks in Yemen, 12 days in Eritrea, 13 days in Sudan , 5 weeks in Eygpt and a week in Cyprus and arrived in Turkey 25 June 2008. Wouldn’t have missed any of it!!

Cruising east of Finike ... July 2008

***Tony, Jessica and Mark on the bridge to Paradise Cafe, Adrasan Beach*** ***All the Gulets at Tekirova Beach*** ***Ruins at the ancient city of Phaselis with Mt Solymnus in the background***

03 -12 July 2008

We are killing time waiting for a new hot water cylinder to arrive into Finike. This has been an ongoing problem since Malaysia when it first started leaking. Unfortunately they built the boat around the cylinder and we couldn’t get it out until we got to Thailand and had a big hole sawed in our aft cabin wall. Then we couldn’t get a new cylinder before we left so had the old one repaired. Well that lasted till the Maldives when it started springing new leaks and has been ever since. It wouldn’t be so bad if it just leaked into the bilge but it sits above the generator so leaks down onto it, so we have had all manner of contraptions rigged to catch the water, along with nappies to soak it up. Needless to say the 1100NZD's we are being charged for a new cylinder will be money well spent!!

So while we await its arrival we have taken the time to cruise east and have spent the last 10 days in some lovely spots between here and Tekirova. We were in company with Tony on Tactical Directions for most of it who had Swedish friend Jessica onboard. We spent the 1st two nights at Cavus Liman or Adrasan Beach. This was a big fairly sheltered bay that had a row of beach restaurants and pensions that looked to serve mainly the local market. We had a long walk ashore right to the end of the beach and followed the road and a small stream and discovered about 6 little cafes with wooden platforms built over the stream which housed the tables, chairs, loungers and umbrellas. All a very laid back environment in a delightful setting.

From there we moved onto Cineviz Liman (Liman means bay in Turkish), this was a stunning spot with dramatic steep hills coming straight down to the waters edge, beautiful clear water, almost totally protected from the wind, and a couple of small pebbly beaches ashore to swim to. We had 3 lazy days in there with a mixture of large overnight tour Gulets, day tripper Gulets, small local craft and a few yachts coming and going. The Gulets are large wooden boats, usually schooners but very few using sails, which are used for the tourist market all along the southern and western Turkish coast. There are 100’s of them and we haven’t got to the touristy parts yet!!! We met up again with Annie and Liam off Gone with the Wind for a couple of days which was great, they had just arrived in from Cyprus along with another Australian boat Mercury II and British boat White Rose.

From there we headed a little further north to Tekirova while Tony continued to Kemer to drop Jessica off for her return flight to Sweden.. When we arrived into the bay at Tekirova I counted a least 22 Gulets, it seemed we had found the tourists, we anchored in the southern end of the bay staying as far away from the crowds as possible. By 4pm all but a few small local craft remained, peace had been restored. Tekirova is the site of ancient Phaselis founded in 690BC by Greek colonists and became a busy trading port for the area. We spent three hours ashore in the morning while all was still quiet wandering around the ruins of this harbour town, under the aqueduct arches, through the houses, into the bathhouses, up onto the terraces of the amphitheatre for an uninterrupted view across to Mt Solymnus, then a walk through the pine forest to the necropolis where there are broken sarcophagi lying covered with pinecones. It was a great stopover and gave us this weeks ration of culture!!! By the time we left the bay there were 30 Gulets in there, most tourists just lounging about onboard or swimming, very few seemed interested in the history ashore. We had a great sail back to Cineviz Liman and tucked back in there for another 3 nights, meeting up again with Tony on Tactical Directions, and meeting at last Sarah and GB off American yacht Djarrka who we have heard on the radio all season, great to finally meet and spend a couple of happy hours catching up with them. Yesterday we came the 30 miles back to Finike, we managed to sail all but the 1st 40 minutes, having wind from all directions and up to 23 knots, somewhat challenging but keeps skipper on the ball. Now we will sit and wait for our parts.