Yemen - Stepping back in time...... March 2008

**The women goatherders of the Hadramaut** **Old Sana'a at dusk from the rooftop of our hotel** **Basket shop in Sana'a** **Blending in with the locals for our walking tour of old Sana'a. Our guide, Tony, Annie, Mark, Amanda and Gary** **Camels and donkeys are common modes of transport** **The immaculately presented assistants in the fabric shop - complete with daggers in their belts (didn't work out if they used them instead of scissors though!!!)**

11 - 31 March 2008

We had a great time in Yemen, I would recommend it to any one thats "been there, done that" and wants something different. The history is mind boggling, back to Noahs Ark times, artifacts 12,000 years old (water urns and tools) buildings from the year dot, you really did just feel that the three wise men were going to pop round the corner at any time.

We left Salalah in company with Gone with the Wind and Tactical Directions to head west along the Oman and Yemen coasts, through "pirate alley" and into the Red Sea. We were all tired of passages so decided to try and do short hops wherever we could. The first short hop however was an overnighter and saw us arrive late afternoon in the Yemenese fishing village of Nishtun, judging by our reception there we may have been the first yachts they had seen for quite some time. We were requested to up anchor just on dark and to come into the small harbour and tie alongside the big concrete wall for our own safety. We weren't that happy about it but had a peaceful night tied up. We had officials check our passports and boat papers but were not checked into Yemen by them. We had the chance to wander around the dock in the morning and watch all the fishing boats arrive in with their catches. There is certainly no shortage of fish around these parts. We were not permitted outside the port and were closely watched by armed personnel at all times but felt very safe.

Then it was on along the absolutely stunning coastline for another overnighter to Ras Sharma, an absolutely beautiful horseshoe bay tucked behind an easily accessible headland, it is simply gorgeous complete with a white washed building in biblical setting on shore, so good we stayed two nights. There is no village here but the few locals ashore were welcoming enough when we visited the next evening to sit with our sundowners to watch the sun dip into the sea. Next stop was Al Mukalla, a day sail along the coast. First and lasting impressions of Al Mukalla from the sea is WOW, like a scene from 1001 Arabian Nights. We experienced our first true multi prayer call in here, the acoustics into the bay were almost deafening, but just amazing.

We had a very easy check in through an agent (Maher) who organised shore passes for us straight away so we could get in and explore up close. Maher also did tours inland so we left Balvenie at anchor and along with the crews off My Chance, Yosun, Phonix, Tactical Directions and Gone with the Wind set out in 2 minivans for an overnight tour inland. The tour up into the Hadrawat Wadi (Valley) was incredible, this is where the Bin Ladens have been for centuries. We stayed the night in Seiyan in a good tourist hotel with ensuite for USD15, went to Shimban, "Manhatten in the Desert" built 1600 years ago, one square mile with all these highrises about 8 stories high!!!! Its not like they didnt have enough room!! We saw the women goatherders, totally covered in black in the searing heat tending their herds and doing all the farm work, they wear a conical hat unlike anything we have seen else wear in the world. This is a land untouched by modern ways and the women in particular did not welcome the attention afforded them by the few tourists around. Maher arranged all this tour, processed our visas, and escorted us along with an armed guard on each minivan and it was excellent. Yemen is certainly having its problems policitally and there have been some incidents involving tourists but we felt very safe and generally welcome where ever we went.

From Al Mukalla it was back to sea and into "pirate alley" . Again we were in company with TD and GWTW for the 2 night sail to Aden, we sailed during the day within sight of each other then closed together at night and motored in very light winds. It worked very well for us and the only other boat we saw was a Yemen Coastguard vessel that came alongside to make sure we were ok. When TD and GWTW said the only thing wrong was that they weren't catching fish the Coastguard vessel went off to a nearby fishing vessel and came back with two tuna each for them, now that's hard to beat!!! We had absolutely no issues with feeling threatened and personally think the closer to Yemen you stay the safer you are. We probably averaged about 15 miles offshore in Pirate Alley. While day sailing we were always within sight of land.

The anchorage in Aden is ok, not great but a secure area and reasonably sheltered in the inner harbour. The weather had been settled so we decided to fly up to Sana'a, Yemens Capital, just USD108 return and only 45minutes for an overnight excursion. We didn't prebook but stayed in the www.dawoodhotel.com in the old city, in an original tower building USD35 share bathroom (between 2 rooms), it was absolutely amazing and would be the most authentic of anywhere we have ever stayed and had a great location. The walled Sana'a old city is incredible, all women either completely covered in their black (as with everywhere in Yemen and Oman) or some of the older women (they were stooped so guessing they were older!!!) had brightly coloured shawls (but all same pattern) but still completely covered, heavens knows how they see out. The men either had the "thobe" white robe or earthy tones wrap with shirt but all from about age 10 wore traditional heavy belt and dagger, just amazing, you really felt like you had stepped back in time couple of hundred years, had to be there really, words can't describe it. Annie and I went with a local girl for a hammam "turkish bath" which was quite an experience, the surrounds looked about 1000ys old and most probably were, then had our hands and feet hennaed. The market was amazing, the street scenes out of biblical movie sets, the architecture stunning and we even got interviewed for Yemen television as they have so few tourists.

I really can not speak highly enough about our time in Yemen, it is definately not for those not used to being off the beaten track, and you should check out the political situation first (not that we did), but it was outstanding., the most welcoming people we have come across, good food, interesting shopping, spectacular anchorages and good fishing, 10 out of 10.

From Aden we moved ever westward heading for the Red Sea, we had an overnight stop in Ras Imran a excellent sheltered bay, then the next night at Ras Al Arah which sits on a low, windy sandspit, its not great but we were leaving at 1am to head for the biggie "Bab el Mandeb" - "The Gates of Sorrow" the southern entrance to the Red Sea on 31 March 2008.

Yemen Anchorage info:
Nishtun 15 49.11N 52 11.73E initially anchored here in 6.5m, quite choppy and just outside the breakwater and dock (CMap not accurate and shows this as other side of bay). Just on dusk we were instructed to move into the tiny harbour and tie alongside the big concrete jetty. Armed guard either protected or watched us all night! Although not that happy about tying to the wall we complied and had a very calm and comfortable night. We were processed by someone in a uniform who checked our papers and took details but did not check us into Yemen
Ras Sharma 14 49.37N 50 01.29E 9.7m horseshoe bay, excellent protection and holding
Al Mukalla 14 31.59N 49 07.98E 7.0m mud bottom, good holding 7boats in there with us and started to fill up as a couple of wrecks to be aware of (easy to see)
Aden 12 47.53N 44 58.84E 8m mud, holding ok, chopped up some in strong winds. Not a huge anchorage but think we had about 14boats at one stage which was snug
Ras Imran/Jabal Aziz 12 44.50N 44 42.57E 6.2m flat water even though rolly outside
Ras Al Arah 12 37.30N 43 54.73E 11.4m flatish water in 25knots. No shelter from wind, bleak looking place but good jump off around 1am for dawn arrival at Bab el Mandeb

Yemen Cruising info:
Security - We had a boat boy onboard in Al Mukalla (shared 1 between 2 boats) while we did our tour. We didn't bother in Aden. We felt very very safe on land and at sea in Yemen
Phone/Internet - Our Oman SIM card worked here also. Didn't find WIFI but good internet at internet cafe in Lulu's mall
Checking into Al Mukalla - Maher (who looks about 16) turned up at the boat to take away our papers, we checked with the boats that had arrived the previous day to check he was some sort of official! He doesn't charge a fixed price (always tricky) we paid him YRL4,000 on departure. Visas for the 2 of us were YRL20,000. We would not have required these if we had not done the inland travel, we would have been issued only with shore passes which are free.
Checking out of Aden - No charge, do it yourslf all within walking distance of anchorage
Tour from Al Mukalla - Our tour was YRL22,000 including van, driver, guard and Maher. All meals, entrance fees and the accomodation were extra (but cheap).
Tour from Sana'a - Return Flights from Aden were USD108 each. Dawood Hotel USD35 double, we got taxis to/from both airports.
Provisions - Huge Lulu's but I actually thought the one in Salalah was better. Top up to get you through to Hurghada in Egypt. Can get nearly everything except pork products. Prices much same as Thailand. Last chance for milk powder (can't even get in Turkey)
Fuel in Aden - There is a fuel dock you can go alongside to. We filled our jerry jugs at USD.715 per litre. Its a drawn out excercise, with plenty of people to see and forms to fill.
Money - USD1 = YMR200 16 Mar 2008. USD available in cash machines in Al Mukalla and Aden - stock up on USD for the Red Sea, no where takes credit cards. Any fuel, food, tours, checkin/checkouts will need USD or local money changed from USD. This is your last chance to get it

Indian Ocean north to Oman ... Feb - Mar 2008

Oman 01 - 10 March 2008

***All the hubble bubble pipes ready for action***The local men, sipping tea, smoking their pipes and gossiping at Mugsail***It's an Omani Camel up close - perhaps a little too close***The very tight anchorage in Salalah**

On Feb 21 we took to sea and arrived in the Oman after 9 days. We had a good passage with fair winds always in front of the beam and only the last day as we closed on Oman did we get unfavourable wind and choppy seas. Balvenie arrived at the port of Salalah in good shape so after catching up on some sleep we did not have too many boat jobs to do and became tourists for a change.

Gone with the Wind had stayed longer in the Maldives and arrived a day after us so we shared a hire car for about 30 USD a day (organised thru Mohammed onshore in the harbour) and drove all over this corner of Oman. Most of the country resembles a lunar landscape with a few dust blown towns dotted around but very interesting and very different from any thing we have seen before. One day we drove east to Mirbat on the coast, we felt sure this is where "Saving Private Ryan" was filmed as whole parts of the town looked totally bombed just as its filmset was. We did not discover the reason to this as Oman has not been in any recent wars. On the way back we drove inland to a couple of nearby wadis (lush areas where water gathers). It was nice to see some greenery in this very dusty landscape.

The following day we went west towards the Yemen boarder. This is an amazing road, newly built with an incredible switchback section that is a serious feat of engineering. We stopped at the Mugsail Blowholes which although the sea wasn't blowing up through them the updraft of air was enough to blow Marks cap off!! Next day we went north and drove up onto the huge desert plateau, it is miles of nothingness, rubble rubble and more rubble. We are convinced Apollo 11 landed here and not on the moon, looks just like it did on TV.

The people have been very friendly and we have experienced incredible hospitality and enjoyed some local food. There are very few Western tourists here so everyone wanted to know where we were from and why we had come!! We didnt see too many women around, it is place is very muslim and any women we saw wore the full burqa with full veil also. There were a few coalition warships from the US and UK in port, they patrol the "pirated" waters between Somalia and Yemen.

Our little haven of "normality" the Oasis Club which is like an English pub for the ex pats and is the only place around that sells alcohol was close to the port area and we generally ended up there for a cleansing ale after a sandy dusty day traveling and now I know first hand what having a throat as dry an an Arabs sandal really means. A great spot in downtown Salalah for eating was the Balbeck Lebanese, yummy, its on 25th (I think)July Street. Lulus supermarket was as good as anywhere and the fruit and veg shop next to Lulus was ok just let him know you want his best ones and out they come!!!!

OMAN
Anchorage info: 16 56.23N 54 00.30E 4.5m average depth, sand over very hardpackd base. Very tight anchorage with poor holding, boats dragging in light winds, sheltered but in commercial port
Cruising info:
Weather - we had strong winds closing in on coast but fine while there. Boats ahead had sand storms/gales and very rough seas
Security - secure as restricted port area, felt safe everywhere
Phone/Internet - local sim card available, worked in Yemen also. WIFI at Oasis Club (pay) also at Brownies Cafe in town (free)
Checking in and out - checkin relatively easy but can take time before cleared off boat- cost OMR15 for boat, OMR12 for one month visas for the 2 of us, can pay by credit card
Money - OMR1 = USD2.60 at 01 Mar 2008. ATM machine on way into town and in town. Most also despatched USD or Rials
Tours/Getting around - remote port location, taxi to town more expensive than car hire for a day. Only place walkable is Oasis Club. Hired car for USD30 per day, interesting countryside like nothing we had seen before and easy to drive on deserted good quality roads
Provisions - excellent, can't get pork products at Lulus but there is a big cold store by naval base that has some, and of course can't buy alcohol to take away and only Hilton, Oasis and another big hotel sell it to drink on the premises and not cheap. There is another Lulus in Aden if you forget anything
Fuel and Water - no diesel at anchorage. Diesel jugs taken in hirecar to fuel station and filled by us (sorry cost not recorded but cheap). Water on dock to fill jug

Indian Ocean Crossing to Maldives ... Feb 2008

Maldives 14 - 21 Feb 2008

***St Barbara all attached for our first night towing them***Welcome to Uligan, the lovely white sandy beach***The anchorage at Uligan, all calm for the moment***Fish for dinner, not much for the whole community***

We said our goodbyes to several departing yachts on 09 Feb from Galle. We had been delayed, firstly by a sheared plate that held our fridge compressor on and then by an engine leak. We were very lucky (and many thanks to Tonjuc off Yosun for his help) to find an Iranian engineer who had been flown in to overhaul a trawler in the harbour. He was an absolute gem and spent all afternoon working on our engine but would take nothing in return. The hospitality we have received by so many people in different places has just been outstanding.

So finally on 10 Feb 08 we left Sri Lanka for our passage across the Indian Ocean to the Maldives. Light winds were forecast so we motored in glassy seas. St Barbara, one of the boats we had done our Sri Lankan land travel with had broken down about 100 miles west of Galle. We were about 20miles south of them when we heard so detoured to help, Peter and crew member Sam had not been able to fix the problem of the engine overheating so we picked them up and we towed them in very calm seas to the Maldives. We did get a brief period where we both managed to sail and we stayed close by in case the wind dropped again and of course it did, so did a perfect manoeuvre at 2am in pitch black conditions and had them attached again in no time. Had we left them, well they were drifting backwards with the current and may well have ended up in India - at some stage!!!! We had never towed a yacht before, Peter had a long floating line ready and Mark set up a bridle on our stern and all went well and to plan. Except for needing to do a rather unexpected and speedy u-turn at one point to pick up a full jug of diesel (with lid securely on!!) which fell overboard while we were refuelling underway all went very well. We went a little slower and burned more fuel but conditions were so calm we hardly knew they were there.

The northern most atoll of the Maldives is called Uligamu/Uligan and they have a customs and immigration office there to process passing yachts. However if you check in here and not at Male first, you are not permitted to travel elsewhere in the Maldive group. They have since tightened their regulations even more and increased their fees, it seems they are definitely after the 5star resort market and not the self sufficient cruising community. We spent a week at anchor waiting for our friends on Gone with the Wind. The days passed but the snorkeling was disappointing after the Andamans and Surins, and although we were welcome ashore there are no restaurants or bars and liquor was not permitted ashore so not even happy hours on the beach.

MALDIVES
Anchorage info: 07 04.80N 72 55.13E Dropped in 13.5m settled 19m, sand patches and coral bottom. Anchorage sheltered from east but not much else and deep
Cruising info:
Weather - changeable with some wind through. Boats ahead of us got rain and winds. Exposed to the east
Security - just not an issue at all, very small place, totally safe and secure
Phone/Internet - no phones, no wifi or internet although the customs did let us check weather on his computer briefly
Checking in and out - they come to you to check in, all in uniforms, very professional and extremely well mannered and pleasant. No charges and very easy
Money - no ATM's or money changers, need USD cash
What to do there - Snorkeling disappointing and we tried several spots at Uligan. There is nothing to do ashore
Provisions - Very limited fresh provisions - mouldy bread, a few tomatoes and little else, basic canned goods
Fuel and Water - diesel delivered in jugs to boat USD1.30 per litre, all easy as long as fuel boat has been in. We didn't need water.

Unplanned Stop in Sri Lanka .... Jan - Feb 2008

Balvenie in Galle.............. Train trip thru tea plantation.......Sipping a nice cup of tea

29 Jan - 10 Feb 2008

We planned to do the trip from the Andamans to the Maldives nonstop, bypassing Sri Lanka as we had heard very mixed but mainly unfavourable reports on the harbour there. However after 7 rather tiring nights at sea with very changable conditions, and then a 20knot headwind just as we were passing the entrance to Galle Harbour we decided to get much needed rest and radioed to Port Control for entry into the harbour, just before sunset.

The following is the email update I sent to cruising friends following in our footsteps...

We sailed close inshore all the way round the bottom of Sri Lanka, several fishing boats came by, but most were mainly large tender size with 2 or 3 onboard and quite big outboards, they all wanted cigarettes or anything and just hung around if we didn't give them anything so we ended up throwing the odd packet of cigs and biscuits and they left. Everyone we encountered was friendly but they come pretty close. Entry into Galle is very straight forward, channel marked clearly, room inside for dropping sails, if there is a swell running there are breaking areas and would be uncomfortable to anchor for long. You have to wait for the navy to come out, they do paperwork onboard then steer the boat into the inner harbour. We used Windsors agent (VHF 69 I think) called Nana he was fine, USD200, along with the odd bribes. We tied up to the big concrete wall, it was great for the 1st 10days but then a swell came in and both there and the stern to pontoon got a little lively. Need plenty of fenders on wall!!!!! Its ok, just depends on your sea conditions at the time. Very secure, we could see 5 towers with armed guards, they do let off depth chargers at night in the harbour which takes some getting used to, this is to deter the Tamal Tigers from swimming in and blowing it up.

Nana gave us a card for Deedee Yacht Service, he has a couple of tuktuk drivers that hang around the main gate out, they will take you anywhere, get laundry done, etc. They charge 300r an hour (100r about $1.08US) and are very good. Ekka has the best English and he was also our guide for our inland trip we did. We did 3nights 4 full days, leave 0730 back 1830. 1st day along south coast then inland to an underground temple (worst stop) then on up into the hills to Ella. High up but not cold, didnt need fleece or sweatshirt. Great tiny wee place in middle of nowhere, stayed at Ella Gap Guesthouse, very good. Would have liked a spare day here as there is some good walking around. Next morning got the train (great train station)at 9.50am to ???(the boys organize everything), really really good, beautiful scenery, real must do. Then they picked us up again and off to a tea plantation and factory which was interesting then on to Kandy in time for Cultural Dancing and Firewalking, not a great venue but worthwhile. Stayed 2nights Plantation House in Kandy. Day trip up to Sigiriya, 5th century palace remains on top of SriLankas answer to Ayers Rock, quite a climb but Robert from Theleme made it and he's 71. Really enjoyed it, we were there Independance Day so quite busy with locals. On way back stopped at Elephant Orphanage, we got there while they had all been taken down to the river for bath time, about 50, all sizes, it was great. Then to Cave Temple at Dambulla, we've seen many a Buddist Temple in our time but were both pretty impressed by this one all in caves, again got some exercise climbing lots of stairs up to it, phew. (great lunch stop, even had iceream, yummy) Back to accom in Kandy. Next morn Buddist Temple in Kandy, it actually wasn't too bad either, worth the stop. Then craft shop stop got overrulled, as did spice and herb gardens (me and 4 blokes - what chance did I have!!!). It was a long day back to Galle as the Tamal Tigers let off 6 bombs during the Independance Weekend so we did a few detours, but came back down the west coast to Galle.

We never once felt threatened or unsafe, it is a shame they have the unrest there, this is an outstanding country, reasonably prosperous - certainly way above our memories of India, the people are lovely. They lost around 47,000 people in the tsunami which has just devastated some areas, they really need the tourism in the coastal areas to get things going again. Our tour cost 60,000R for the 2 of us, there were the 5 of us in a new minivan with driver and guide, all meals (they were very good), soft drinks with lunch, all entrance fees (Sigirayi is 20USD) guides where needed, train ticket in observation car, accomm - own bathroom, basically everything except alcohol and tips for guides at 'attractions' (we did 100R pp). I didn't think the tour was cheap but we were very happy with it and the standard of everything.

Back in Galle, the fort area is worth a walk around, especially peeping into the "Notaries/ Solicitors" offices, who dont seem to have power and still use manual typewriters, even more backward than Andamans. Also get a tuktuk out east along the coast (the boys will take and wait) for lunch to one of the lovely beaches.
For provisions Mikes Yacht Services deliver right to the boat (its a bit of a walk from the entrance to the boats so this is a good option) prices are regulated and he will take credit card at no extra charge. He will organize tours too, USD65 per day for car and driver, everything on top of this.

Overall we really enjoyed our unplanned stop here, but the harbour is a little like Penang - be prepared to rock and roll (more of a surge really and free salt water wash as water comes up under the wall as certain times of the tide). Things were more expensive than we thought they would be, oh diesel Nana does 96R per litre, we filled water from shower block into tanks and just filtered it. Sim card 300R and 1200R calltime did us for calls home and texts.

Overall ratings for Sri Lanka.....Anchorage 8/10, its free, secure and was great while calm
Tour 8/10 good vehicle, guide and accomodation and sights
Provisioning 9/10 could get nearly everything, including more marmite for skipper

A taste of India - Andaman Islands ... Jan 2008

01 - 22 Jan 2008
CLICK ON ANY PHOTO TO ENLARGE ***Stopping at the gold Ghandi Statue in downtown Aberdeen, Port Blair - our driver was very proud of his car and new floral orange and brown upholstry***Group shot of the wild elephant hunters at Interview Island - Vivienne, Sal, Mark, John and Amanda (Alastair taking photo)***3 blokes and 3 boats, John, Mark and Alastair ashore for another excellent barbie on North Reef Island***

We were once told that “you either have a fast passage or a comfortable passage – very rarely both”. Unfortunately this was not one of those rarely both occasions and we had a fast passage, beating to windward in some very strange seas. We had heard from the boats that crossed last year that the Andaman Sea (between Thailand and the Andamans) could be very confused, lots of counter currents, volcanic ridges and mountains underwater, no exit for the tides as they enter into the Bay of Bengal, all contributing factors to yet another ocean washing machine, on an extended agitate cycle. Every now and then we would get an hour or two of flat water and we would get our hopes up that things had settled down and it would be like this the remainder of the voyage, however that was just the washing machine resting on the soak cycle before launching into the spin cycle!!!!
Less than 48 hours after leaving the Surins it was ‘land ahoy’ as the entrance to Port Blair was sighted through the mist.

MORE TO COME WHEN INTERNET ACCESS ...OK , its now January 2009, year on and I am now starting to work on finishing these..please be patient, I'llget there soon

More Andaman Photos

CLICK ON ANY PHOTO TO ENLARGE ***Elephants on the beach at Havelock No 7 Beach***The local boys will play cricket anywhere***Women collecting firewood at Havelock No 7***The sun sets over the Bay of Bengal from Interview Island on the west coast of the Andaman Islands 10 Jan 2008***

Christmas time in the Surins ... Dec 2007

24 - 30 Dec 2007
CLICK ON ANY PHOTO TO ENLARGE ***Very good snorkelling in clear water***Christmas Lunch onboard Largo Starwith Alastair and Vivienne***Mark the Red Nosed Reindeer***Even the Thai Fishing boats look to have Xmas decorations on!!!***

Santa Claus arrives in the Surins, but while trying to find a chimney to enter Balvenie it appears he has broken the watermaker. This is really not a good thing, we are embarking on a huge off shore passage across the Indian Ocean, and then onto the Red Sea travelling through deserts, the ability to make our own fresh water is paramount. So Christmas morning is spent by skipper removing the watermaker and pump and setting all the parts out on the table to inspect them. Now there is one thing fundamentally wrong with this situation, that table is earmarked already – it is to seat 4 for Christmas Lunch!!!!! As the hours pass and the watermaker is in even more pieces Vivienne comes to the rescue and instead of her bringing all their lunch goodies to us they offer to host lunch and we take the Roasted Leg of Lamb and vegetables (with roast pumpkin – yummy) to them. We have an excellent, huge lunch, complete with Christmas crackers and silly hats, complemented by several bottles of fine duty free wine. Eating in the tropics is oh so tiring and we all blob about the rest of the afternoon in the heat onboard Largo Star. Pavlova (it’s amazing what you can find at Carrefours in Patong) and liquors are taken as the sun starts to dip and we are joined onboard Largo Star by a young Thai based couple who were on the 3rd mooring buoy in the bay. Besides the watermaker still in pieces it had been another excellent Christmas while cruising, thanks to Viv and Al or coming to the rescue.
The next 3 days are almost spent at leisure, a large part of the time in the crystal clear waters enjoying the best marine life we have seen in a very long while, many varieties of fish and some excellent live coral. Mark has found the faulty part, the teenyist little o ring in the watermaker pump has fallen apart, luckily we have a spare and there is much celebration when the switch is turned on, all the right noises fill the peace and quiet onboard and desalinated water starts coming out again, yippee. It is so nice to be able to put everything back together again and the saloon no longer looks like a workshop. Skipper adds the Surins to his ever growing list of “Maintenance in Exotic Places”!!!!!
It really is lovely here, each day we have a few tour boats arrive. We seem to be on their favourite mooring buoy as they throw us a line and daisy chain onto the back of Balvenie. At one stage we had 4 boats attached to us!!! Then they disgorge their daytrippers overboard, all adorned with lifejackets, snorkels, masks and flippers for their holiday snorkelling experience. The “Oohs and Ahhs” from these novices remind us of how lucky we are to be able to experience these locations for as long as we want. Long after the tourists leave we cherish the peace and tranquillity over a sundowner or two ashore. There is a great little beach with lovely soft white sand and happy hours and bar-b-ques are the order of the days. Sadly we can’t stay in our new found paradise for ever so we move around to the West Coast anchorage to make our trip to the Andamans just a little shorter.
It’s rollier around this side but we tie up to one of the mooring buoys between the two islands and are comfortable enough for a couple of nights. The National Park headquarters are here so we dinghy ashore, pay our park fees, have a passable meal at the boarding school style cafeteria, and go for a long walk through the jungle around to the bay on the north western shores. On the way back Mark and Alastair somehow get invited by the Thai Navy boys, who are lazing under a shady tree, to join them for a couple of rounds of Thai Whiskey shooters, good thing Vivienne and I are on hand to steer them back to the dinghies or we may never have seen them again. Then we spent an hour or two filling our water jugs, even though the watermaker is operational again we always take the opportunity to fill to overflowing our fresh water supply as you just never know!!!!
Back on board, it’s our last night in Thailand, tomorrow Sunday 30 December 2007 we will point the bow westwards again and resume our circumnavigation. Next stop the Indian governed Andaman Islands.

Around Asia - Dec 2006 - Dec 2007

Leaving Malaysia and Thailand ... Nov - Dec 2007

09 Nov - 24 Dec 2007
Malaysia getting ready to leave We have had several runs into town to fill up with spares and supplies, of course people do eat all over the world but you just never know when or if you will find all your little favorite goodies along the way, will two dozen jars of Marmite be enough? will they sell corn tortillas in Yemen? is it true you can't get toilet paper in Eritrea??? The list goes on so we just kept filling up the lockers and watch Balvenie settle deeper and deeper in the water with each new shopping excursion. Then, of course, there is the ever important alcohol. Langkawi is duty free so much much cheaper than Thailand, plus we were heading for Muslim countries, who knows when we would see alcohol again, 2 dozen bottles of Mt Gay Rum, a dozen 4litre casks of wine and now 10 cartons of beer are onboard, the bilges are overflowing, Balvenie will soon sink under the weight!!!

Malaysia to Thailand 09 - 19 Nov 2007
It is time, the monumental day is upon us, 09 Nov 2007 and we are finally leaving Rebak Marina (otherwise known as the RRV - the Rebak Retirement Village). After several farewell parties we really must leave, we have made so many friends here and so few are moving on in our direction this year Our friends and neighbours Theo and Michelle off Dutch yacht Faja Lobi let our lines go, its like cutting the umbilical cord, we have been here 10 months, its home, we feel safe and secure and now we are going back out into the big blue wobbly stuff to start our adventure ever westward, destination this season of Turkey.

It all seems like too bigger task to think of in one go so we will nibble away at it, bit by bit. Just to let ourselves in gently the first nibble is to Telaga around 3 miles away - should be able to cope with that! We meet up with Graham and Val on Silverheels II, more neighbours from Rebak, they are heading for Thailand too so we have company for the first part of the journey. First stop is Ko Lipe and we anchor between the islands in a lovely spot with calm water. It;s great to be out into the clear Thai waters again, one downside of Langkawi is the murky water, its clean enough but it doesn't look too appealing. We stayed 2 nights at Ko Lipe, it's a cute little laid back place with a few backpackers lounging around, and some cheap little cafes, very low key.

From Lipe it was north to Ko Rok Nok for a couple of nights. We had a good sail up and hooked onto one of the courtesy moorings in deep enough water (some of them are in shallow water, as friends last year found out). We stayed two nights and enjoyed walks ashore, snorkeling and happy hours. So far circumnavigating again was going ok! Next it was ontode Ko Kran where again we got a mooring buoy. "Wallies Place" which I'm sure does actually have a more official name is a great spot for lunch if you can find it nestled in the bush slightly inland, there's not much else here. Just before dark the wind picked up which put us on a lee shore with reef behind us, never a good situation to be in, but it settled at around 20 knots for a couple of hours and petered out overnight. We put in a biggie the next day, Silverheels II stopped at some islands after trying out their new cruising chute which looked very impressive. We didn't like the look of the anchorage and decided to press on in light winds north to Phi Phi Le, about 10 miles to go the wind picked up and we flew along close hauled with the odd wave crashing over the bow - welcome back to sailing.

We made Phi Phi Le just before dark and were lucky to pick up the last mooring in the mouth of the bay, it was a little rolly but what magnificent scenery. We hadn't been here before so got up at 6am and dinghyed ashore before the hoards of tourists arrived in the noisy long tail boats. This was the location for the film "The Beach" and has become a very popular spot. It is a tiny National Park area, so no accommodation or cafes, just a beautiful beach in a tiny almost fully enclosed mountainous bay. Sadly many people drowned here during the Boxing Day Tsunami of 2005, because of the sheer cliff face there was no where to run.

By 8am about 20 longtails had already arrived so it was time for us to go and we had a gentle sail across to to Ko Racha Yai and met back up with Silver Heels II. Our evening excursion ashore was very interesting. We picked up Val and Graham and in the one dinghy headed for the long floating dock , quite a swell was coming into the bay which made the dock into a floating rollercoaster instead. Graham, Val and I jumped out and successfully made it ashore on this bucking bronco (only just!) and then waded in the surf to catch Mark in dinghy as he surfed in, sometimes going ashore is really too hard but dinner was great, the company was great and we were out cruising again. Deploying the dinghy again to return home was another saga, it seemed sensible for Mark to get in and get the motor running while I held the dinghy in the surf, then ofcourse I needed to launch it out into the waves and jump in, all of which was done precisely as planned except for the fact I got totally wet, oh well, off to the rollercoaster dock to pick up Val and Graham who basically lurched into the dinghy, water splashing in all directions, still the perfect end to a perfect evening!! Next morning was the short trip up to Ao Chalong where we checked into Thailand and received our 30day visitors visas, just a couple of nights here then straight up to Yacht Haven Marina, we had work to do.

Yacht Haven Marina 20 Nov - 16 Dec 2007
We know we should have gone to Penang, got a 2 month Visa and given ourselves more time to get everything done we wanted, but we didn't and now we are running around like headless chickens trying to get everything organised and completed within a month. We have had an ongoing problem with our hot water cylinder leaking and could not get the work done in Malaysia so that is top on our list, have a big hole cut in our cabin wall to access the cylinder and replace it. We also want a "stack pack" "boom bag" whatever you want to call it, a mainsail cover that is permanently fixed that you just unzip before raising the sail. With all the day sailing we will be doing up the Red Sea we feel it is a good decision, but now the company we have been talking too may not have enough time to make it, they have told us they can not make the awning we had planned on, even though we had already advised of our arrival - should have got here earlier. I desperately want the galley bench replaced, the old one is cracking up, we contact Mali who has been recommended, he says we will need to do all the work onboard because of the way it has been fitted, no problem they can start tomorrow and it will only be 4 days, things are looking up. Mr Oh arrives and quotes on making the hole in the cabin wall and doing some repairs to the hull, we are happy with the quote and they too can start tomorrow. It is all go!!! Absolute chaos is an understatement of life on Balvenie during the next 3 weeks. Everything is removed from the galley as the bench top is chiselled off, the tap and sink removed and the new hole cut for additional storage, 4 days extends to 12 days with no galley or even water in the galley. Good thing eating out in Thailand is cheap!! Very good cruising friends off "Anon" Brian and his son Taylor arrive to stay a few nights while Sarah is off working in India, unfortunately we can't spend much time with them. The hole is sawed into the aft cabin wall (sawdust everywhere) and the hot water cylinder is removed, we can not source a replacement anywhere in Phuket so our leaking one goes off to hopefully be repaired. Meanwhile outside Mr Oh's boys are working hard each day repairing little dinks in the hull and cutting/polishing the boat, Balvenie is starting to gleam. Somewhere during this time skipper turns 50 and we have an impromptu dinner at Mamas with everyone we know invited, it was a great night. We say our farewells to Brian and Taylor, they will soon fly back to Christchurch (NZ) to live for Taylor to commence secondary school, so their cruising days are numbered for now. The galley bench is finished but the boys dropped a brick they were using as a weight into the newly repolished stainless steel sink and dented it badly, I am not happy so out it comes again to go away to be repaired. The days are flying by, the stress levels increasing by the hour. Meanwhile we are speeding around Phuket getting last minute spares, more groceries, filling the lockers, bilges and freezer to the brim. And did I mention the new microwave and espresso coffee machine to replace our dead applicances, and there was the liferaft that needed servicing which had to be freighted to Bangkok, and all new flares to be purchased, plus we will need more fenders for Med mooring, phew its all go. Somehow I manage a few hours out for a skin check at the excellent Bangkok Phuket Hospital and have a few sun spots zapped and one removed from my face with 14 stitches to sew me back together!! The plastic surgeon did an amazing job all for around $700NZD. We also manage a quick shopping excursion with Sal and John off "Jaraman", who help Mark chose a guitar. I gave him an "IOU a guitar" for his birthday, since we started cruising he has said how he would love to learn the guitar and with the long passages ahead of us this seems like a good time to start. John is an excellent guitar player (and Sal is pretty good too) so they give him some pointers and help choose a guitar, strings, tuner, lesson books etc etc that now make their way onboard as well, where will they go!!!! Finally the sink is repaired, its ok, we are fast running out of time, it will have to do. Mark attaches our sparkling new tap, the internal joins are leaking, off it comes again, bugger. Another days hire car, they don't have another tap at the hardware store - most taps here just have cold water - so eventually they give us a refund and we drive around trying to find an alternative, success. The new tap is fine, the galley is completed and looks great with its new black benchtop and stainless steel appliances, the water cylinder is repaired although he warns us it is on its last legs, it will have to do for now, Mr Oh does a great job of finishing off around the cut out piece and it all looks like it was meant to be. Everything is stowed, the clock is ticking, we are ready to leave, but where is the new sail cover? It arrives the next afternoon, the slugs are the wrong size and it can not be attached, this is not looking good. He is back the following morning with the correct slugs and it goes on, the reefing lines holes have been put in the wrong place but we will work around that, it is finally attached and zipped up, the zipper end comes off in his hand, and it really is not big enough and not fully covering the sail at both ends and the top, this is going from bad to worse. Had we had more time I would have sent it back to be remade and the zipper replaced, we had run out of time, a quickfix was done on the zipper and I will have to try and extend it at some point to cover the sail fully. We are not happy customers having spent over $1,000NZD on the cover, still moral of the story is "give yourself plenty of time", we have learnt the hard way!
Yacht Haven to Surins 17 - 23 Dec 2007
First stop is Nai Harn Bay where we met up with very good Kiwi friends Chris and Hilary off "Moon River" who have come through on this years 'Sail Asia Rally' from Darwin. Although we had managed to spend time with them when we were all back in Auckland last March, we last saw them at sea in the Louisiades so great to have a quick catch up. Its Hilarys' 60th birthday so party time on Moon River, the farewells in cruising are just dreadful but boy the reunions are great fun. Next day it is truly the last provision run. We will be cruising in company with more good friends Alastair and Vivienne, also Kiwis (there are actually very few of us floating around out here) off "Largo Star", up the Thai coast, out to the Surins for Christmas then onto the Andamans. Of course Vivienne and I need to get all the Christmas Dinner provisions, Leg of Lamb, vegetables for roasting, Pavlova and all kiwi trimmings, the boys moan and groan but they wont when they get to eat it. Off by tuktuk to Carrefour and the excellent Patong Deli in Patong, the boys decide they need more fishing tackle, Mark needs more "guitar stuff", Balvenie bulges at the seams. Nai Harn Bay is famous in Phuket for the place yachties gather to spend Christmas, it is getting busier by the day, we keep seeing old friends arrive and catch up as much as we can. Then its time to go get my stitches out, off to Ao Chalong to check out and we have our last night ashore at the Jungle Bar with about 20 friends, this is truly the last farewell. 21Dec, time to go. Why is it when everyone is waiting to wave goodbye things start to go wrong. First the engine wouldn't start, after some time Mark has that up and running, then alas the windlass won't go. A loose connection is the culprit of both, everything retightened and at last we pull out of Nai Harn for the last time. Circumnavigating again - wow. We have an interesting sail up the coast to Nai Yang, wind bullets coming across the hills, lulls across the bays, they all kept us on our toes. We anchor in a sheltered spot and had a lovely dinner ashore at this cute little beach with the restaurants virtually on the sand. Next day was a great sail north with a light nor-easter and flat seas, we practiced our tacking and enjoyed the day, tucking up for the night in the river at Ban Tap Lamu and going ashore again for dinner. This is a navy base and the local cafe was run by the navy wives, rather interesting. Another day and further north we go to Ko Phra Thong, there is more wind today but still a good sail and we anchor inside the entrance to this large waterway, and go ashore for a big walk along the beach. We don't have time to further explore the waterways as we really want to be in the Surin Islands for Christmas and it is the 23rd. Christmas Eve we jump off from the Thai mainland out to the Surin Islands, how come all the way up the coast we sail to windwind and now we head west and we are still sailing to windward? Still the wind is good so no motoring, we make good time and arrive in the Surins on the East Coast Bay and pick up a courtesy mooring buoy. The water is so clear and the reef so close that we feel in the middle of an aquarium, Largo Star have the buoy next to us and we are all settled ready for Santa Claus to arrive.

Trips off Balvenie during 2007 - Including Americas Cup in Valencia

This one will be done last as its not sailing related, but I'll get there, one day 03/01/09

2007 Valencia Americas Cup

Sail Asia Rally - ... Apr - Nov 2006

SAIL INDONESIA RALLY 2006
CRUISING NOTES FROM “BALVENIE”

We joined the 2006 Darwin – Kupang rally just to make the paperwork easier. We totally underestimated the organization of the ongoing rally events through to Langkawi in Malayisa, and the depth of companionships and friendships we would experience along the way. We would recommend the rally to everyone, and have done! For those that like total cruising in company there will always be someone going your way to buddy boat with, for those that truly like to get away from it all this too is possible, Asia is a huge cruising ground with all sorts of options, the great advantage with the rally is you can dip in and out of it, as and when you chose.

Below I’ve detailed our anchorages, All care has been taken to give the correct information but please double check everything yourselves. I have tried to use the most common names or names found on CMap, some places have several names/spellings

DARWIN – KUPANG
The passage up was light winds the first 3 days, sailing with the MPS up during daylight and motoring at night. On the 3rd night as we got closer to Timor the Southeast trades kicked in and we had a brisk sail. We rounded the bottom of Timor in some disturbed seas on the 16m line south of Tanjung Oecina, but once we got into Selat Semau seas flattened completely and wind eased right off.
There was one yacht anchored at
TELUK TOBLOLONG appx 10.19.00S 123.27.96E

KUPANG
We had a couple of hours of light left so kept going up Selat Semau, there had been hours of discussion about the currents/tides etc in these Selats, experience has shown that there is no formula for agreeing the best time to transit them, you just got what you got and it seemed best closest to shore. There was a lot of boat activity in the strait at dusk with all the local fishing boats leaving for the evening. Approaching Kupang in the dark was difficult as anchored boat lights blended right into the city lights, as we got close we called the anchored yachts and they lit themselves up and guided us in. We anchored just outside “Teddys”. This is a big bay, but not the best holding and some days we were getting an afternoon seabreeze from the Northeast, which certainly livened the dinghy landings up. Teddys beach boys were great, sure we paid, but we would have happily paid in Darwin to have someone haul our dinghy up Fanny Bay Beach!!! Teddy received negative feedback for being too expensive, having a monopoly etc, however he gets things organized and has provided an excellent venue for our “Welcome to Indonesia”. Several people bought local SIM cards in Kupang and coverage throughout all the island chains was very good with phone towers a regular sight. ATM’s between here and Bali are few and far between, and often have a tiny maximum withdrawl, take plenty of cash, small denominations are best. We took a minibus with one of Teddys university guides to the local produce market, one of the best we saw in Indonesia.

NORTH FROM KUPANG TO TG GUMUK
Easy day sail up the Timorese coast in light winds and flat water. Some boats tried to find shallow enough water at TG Mas unsuccessfully. About 12 of us ended up at
TG GUMUK 9.30.90S 123.47.50E in 11 metres,
a little rolly and you could hear the waves crashing on the shore but ok for an overnight stop.

TIMOR TO LEMBATA (ISLAND CALLED KAWULA ON CHARTS)
Long day, very little wind, flat seas. Some yachts at anchor on SW tip at approx
8.30.52S 123.13.64E Good reports from those that stayed here.

LEBALABA BAY/LEWOLEHA BAY/TG WAI WOWANG – LEMBATA (KAWULA/LOMBLEM)
8.22.16S 123.24.45E Lebalaba Rally anchorage 10m
We continued to Lebalaba Bay rally anchorage. Do not advise night time arrival, fishing nets laid everywhere at sunset plus a couple of sandbanks. Allow plenty swing room, boats wandered all over the place for no reason after about 4 days!!! Stunning vista of smoking volcanoes. Unforgettable rally reception. ATM’s accept local cards only, travellers cheques NOT changed, USD/AUD cash only. Slow Internet available at Council office. 20L water bottles and diesel (walk to station) available. Reasonable fresh produce market daily, great little restaurant on the road the market is on, just next to the mosque. Tasty food, cheap Bintang.

LEMBATA – ADUNARA
More discussions on right time to go through Boling Strait, we left earlier than the experts advised and had flat seas and current with us. We then turned to port and went through the little channel above TG Wur Cobin and TG Magawutun. CMap was spot on but we also had perfect visibility and could clearly define the channel. Many boats anchored at 8.14.73S 123.19.59E approx, just on right after little channel. All wandered with tides/currents but no harm done and beautiful spot.
We had good breeze so kept going, breeze then died and unfortunately our engine did a very good impression of blowing up and we limped 8 miles back to closet anchorage
SAGU BAY at TG WATU KOLI 8.14.42S 123.13.43E in 10m quite close to reef
There are a couple of charted rocks in the bay, we couldn’t see them but one boat nudged one. We had an anxious evening with the “brains trust” working on our engine, all was not well.
We had planned to anchor that night at
SERBETE (P MAS) 8.09.06S 123.00.67E approx
The boats that did try stopping here reported not much room to anchor in shallow enough water and not good holding, snorkelling was nothing special either.

FLORES
We were now a sail boat using our engine just for getting in and out of anchorages, because of very light winds we had some long days but managed ok.
TG GEDONG 8.04.74S 122.50.68E dropped in 12m drifted back to 19m
This was a nice bay with a track leading over the hill to a nearby village. The bottom was quite deep until very close in and is broken coral base. Some boats anchored along the northern end of bay and took a stern line ashore. We fitted 9 boats in and had a comfortable night.
The sail from here to Wailamung was a mixture of wind directions and speeds. Coming across the bay from TK Hading the wind funnels down between the volcanoes and whips across the bay, nearly all the boats experienced strong winds for a couple of hours here. Some boats went into anchor in Hading Bay and had a pleasant beach bar-b-que but reported deep water in close and not much space, again some took stern lines ashore
WAILAMUNG/ILI LEWOLORO (ABEAM BABI ISLAND)
preferred anchorage at 8.25.17S 122.35.40E around 10m in between reefs
We anchored at 8.25.30S 122.35.28E in 26m (anchorage full)
There is an outlying reef to clear before turning to port to come into this anchorage, our waypoint for turning was 8.25.196S 122.34.961E visibility was ok as we had good daylight and clear skies.
Stayed 2 nights here, there is a market ashore once a week, sorry can’t remember which day. Once past the market area this is a nice village with some friendly English speaking locals keen to show us around.

WODONG Drop wherever you can in the bay, depths vary greatly and there is a wreck quite close in.
Anchored 8.36.45S 122.28.49E (on land on CMap) in 23m swung to 18m with 70m out
This anchorage is not that scenic but there is a little backpackers here that does dive courses and excellent meals. You do need to advise them in advance and they can only take limited numbers but the food was very good. You can also arrange a minibus tour to MAUMERE, quite a large town, ATM machines, market, travel agencies, internet etc. It is also about another 40 minutes to visit the Local Ladies Weaving Corporate where we saw the whole process of Ikat making.
TG BATU BOGA Anchored at 8.28.06S 121.57.68E near some fishing boats in 16m
Tried to anchor 8.28.26S 121.57.42E in 6m by small island but holding poor
Also tried entrance to bay but couldn’t find anything suitable. This was our only night at anchor alone between the Whitsundays, April 2006 and Phang Nga Bay Thailand, January 2007!
TG TODO/TODO BAY Arrival Waypoints 8.32.00S 121.25.00E
8.33.05S 121.25.48E
8.34.29S 121.25.49E
Anchored at 8.34.89S 121.25.76E tucked behind small reef.
There is a small memorial building on shore and a land formation that looks just like a huge English thatched roofed Cottage. The reef may have had some good snorkelling but we had a late arrival and early departure.
RIUNG We sailed outside all the islands enroute but many boats went around/inside them.
Arrival Waypoints 8.22.66S 121.02.50E
8.23.72S 121.02.06E
8.24.03S 121.01.74E
Anchored at 8.24.42S 121.01.60E
Preferred Anchorage 8.24.56S 121.01.75E approx
The final entrance through the reef was well marked by the rally organizers with coloured buoys (not red and green) and was easy to follow as you approached. There were about 40 boats in the anchorage when we arrived so we were further away from the dinghy jetty but comfortable. There is a REEF in the middle of the anchorage. We missed the rally events here but had enough latecomer boats to put together a day trip to the hot springs and Bima, one of the last traditionally built preserved Indonesian villages in the volcanic foothills. You can also stop enroute at an ATM. This trip was worthwhile but it is about 14hours so go prepared!! There are a couple of restaurants in Riung, small stores with very basic food items, diesel from a drum and 20L water bottles were available at jetty while rally boats there.
LINGEH BAY ******There are a lot more bommies/reef patches than shown on CMap*******
Arrival Waypoints 8.16.86S 120.35.35E
8.16.97S 120.35.56E
8.17.02S 120.35.81E
8.17.00S 120.35.90E
Anchor anywhere in here, varying depths from 6m to 15m. Snorkelling very good, several small reefs.
this was one of the few spots that all the locals came out in dugouts wanting books, pens, etc they were not interested in trading just wanted to be given things. We didn’t go ashore but this was a lovely anchorage.
TELOK BARI Anchored at 8.20.57S 120.10.79E in 14m
Comfortable big bay, shallower closer in but we were last again and already about 10 yachts. CMap ok
SOUTH LABUAN BAJO Anchored at 8.31.06S 119.52.02E in 6m mud
The anchorage in Labuan Bajo was busy so we anchored further down the coast in a calm spot outside a dive resort. You can do your PADI dive certificate from here. This was a good spot, access to town was ok if you had enough people to share a minivan but no buses. 20L water, fuel, ATM’s, fruit and vege market all available in town. Cruisey place, quite a few backpackers around so several good restaurants overlooking bay.

ISLANDS AROUND RINCA AND KOMODO
SABAJOR KETJIL Tried anchoring on north coast but shallow water too close in for comfort and several little bommies. Water very clear, diving recommended here but those that did stay had a rolly night.
SABAJOR BESAR Anchored at 8.30.36S 119.42.73E dropped in 12m sand patch, settled 5m over flat coral. You need good light to do this, the water was very clear and looked shallower than it was. This was a very pretty spot, good dinghy excursions around little islands, snorkelling was not bad, and no roll. CMap not too much use here, need good light and eyes.
GILI LAWA LAUT Anchored at 8.26.88S 119.34.11E 14m sandy spot, CMap shows on land. shallower closer in look for sandy areas as a lot of the bottom is coral, plus 3 mooring buoys (one wasn’t attached to the bottom so best check!!!) Lovely spot, pretty beach and great swimming with manta rays, they are pretty big. Excellent diving reported around the rocks just offshore, marked on CMap.

From here we did the unthinkable, this area is reputed to be the best Indonesia has to offer, Komodo dragons, superb fish life and coral down at Red Beach, monkeys and deer on the beach at Rinca, the highlights go on, well so did we!!! We were really battling sailing in such light airs with a sail plan much more suited to crossing Cook and Bass Straits!! We did a 2 night sail along the northern coasts of Sumbawa and Lombok, very fickle winds affected by some huge volcanoes, generally flat seas.

THE GILIS (P TREWANGAN, P MENO & P AER ON CMAP) & LOMBOK
GILI AER (DON’T MISS) Easiest to come down the channel between Lombok and Gili Aer, it doesn’t look very wide on CMap but it is very easy to see. (We came down the other side and around the bottom). The anchorage is on the southeastern tip on the island (on the reef on CMap) As you come down the eastern side of the island at the end there is a clear channel into the anchorage, quite close to land, it is a sharp turn to starboard, land on your right, reef on your left. If you miss it go around this reef to the other opening at entry waypoint 8.22.29S 116.04.94E if you use this waypoint then go due north towards land, anchor apprx 8.21.96S 116.05.00E in 22m loose coral base
There are also some mooring buoys, locals may come out collecting anchoring charge, after much discussion it was finally agreed on no charge for anchoring, those on moorings were asked to contribute. This is a small anchorage but a one point after we left there were 22 rally boats in here. Don’t even think about going past here without stopping. Transport is donkey and cart, bamboo loungers with big cushions to relax on, excellent food and drinks (cheap) at a very good range of places.
MOHAMMED’S PLACE @ T KECINAN ON LOMBOK
This is about an hour south of Gili Aer on Lombok mainland, Mohammed has moorings, can organize water, fuel, tours inland, trip to extend Indo visas (although some had hiccups with this).
Moorings approx 8.23.88S 116.04.19E
We didn’t go in here and there are some fish farms outside that we saw.
T MANGSIT Anchored at 8.28.74S 116.02.80E in 8m sand
Had afternoon southwest breeze again here but not too much fetch or swell but could have been an interesting dinghy landing if we had gone ashore to one of the hotels
LOMBOK STRAIT We had an early departure headed for Bali, there were hundreds (no exaggeration) of small fishing craft coming in towards Lombok after their night fishing. Some appeared to have sails set and were asleep!! The current here is said to always be south setting. We had 7 knots of current with us for a couple of hours, sure get there faster. There was some very interesting water north of Lembongan Island, nothing too scary, just lively. We had good breeze all the way across and headed for the rally anchorage, as you approach you can only see breakers on the reef but the opening does become apparent.

BALI
SERANGAN Approach waypoints 8.43.66S 115.16.07E
8.43.51S 115.15.18E (CMap slightly out)
Port/starboard marks 8.43.49S 115.14.95E
Anchored at 8.43.17S 115.14.48E in 8m
We had over 7 metres all the way in and there is ample room to drop sails once inside the anchorage, sailing in was not a problem, several boats did it. We arrived before “Sea Bali” the local rally organizers set up and it was easy to get fuel, water, laundry, taxis, tours etc through the local shopkeepers. Once Sea Bali moved in the local shops were virtually closed down and everything had to be done thru the rally. They did provide an excellent service for renewing visas. We moved down to Benoa Harbour and Bali Marina to get our engine work done
BALI MARINA Cmap is spot on for the entry to the harbour using markers, keep going up until 8.44.91S 115.12.87E
8.44.76S 115.12.79E green markers on starboard
Marina entrance 8.44.42S 115.12.82E
We went in at high tide and had plenty of water but don’t stray outside the final area around the marina as at low tide some of it dries out. The marina is pretty rickety, the showers cold, smelly & horrible, the restaurant quite good, if you send laundry check you get it all back, but all in all not a bad wee spot. We were recommended Johnny at Bintang Diesel for our engine repairs. He spoke little English but was excellent, he deals mainly with truck diesels but he knows his stuff. I have two phone numbers written down, think is workshop was 361 436 922 and mobile 0811 399 681. His workshop is at 14A Cokroaminoto Jalan Denpasar. He spent around 20hours (with assistant) and fixed our problem for around $400NZD.

PULAU RAAS
Having had such favourable current down the Lombok Strait there was considerable discussion on just how we were to head north again. Only a handful went around the bottom and up Selat Bali, they all got through with a mixture of conditions. We had sought local advice and were told to stay close to Bali and just sneak our way up. We left in company with one other and motor sailed easily up the southeast coast with little contra current and calm waters, we could see the distributed water only a couple of hundred metres outside us, until we got abeam of about T Bugbug. We then hit very disturbed waters, winds up to 35knts from all directions, all a little lively for a couple of hours until we cleared the eastern most point of Bali. Then winds died off and very sloppy seas, motored overnight to Pulau Raas (most boats experienced similar conditions over the next 3 weeks). Approach to Raas easy in good light, CMap pretty accurate, final approach 7.06.12S 114.30.09E
7.06.01S 114.30.47E
7.06.38S 114.30.81E
Anchored at 7.07.18S 114.30.31E in 14m scattered bommies around.
A long way from shore, but very comfortable

PULAU BAWEAN
Now that our engine was fixed we were having good winds. Overnight sail to Bawean, thousands of flags at sea, maybe small fishing craft mooring buoys, they went on till dusk and were there at dawn, amazing but we didn’t seem to hit any. Cmap slightly out, turn at 5.43.04S 112.39E
Anchored at 5.43.93S 112.40.12E in 5m very hard sand
This island is very Muslim, dress accordingly, as all the women are well covered. Excellent fruit and veg market, we organized a day tour with a local on the beach, really nice place. Only downside was it was the start of Ramadan and every mosque loud speaker seemed to be pointed at the anchorage. The praying is 24hours during Ramadan, there is no escaping it. A small eatery with basic food was open ashore on the beachfront road.

KALIMANTAN/BORNEO
KUMAI
Overnight sail in good winds, comfortable seas, in company with 7 other yachts. Lots of local traffic, all well lit with a variety of lights, several tugs and barges. Barges, however, were NOT lit, one vessel was pulling two barges, neither lit. Radar was very useful and we all passed information between us. A busy night. We were first to arrive at the Kumai River mouth. For those of you with deep drafts I will give our waypoints, we didn’[t see less than 4m in or out. Aim for leading light and starboard marker , CMap accurate out here but a little out further upstream


from green mark to 2.56.92S 111.41.55E
2.54.23S 111.42.52E should be able to see leads
in the bush to get you to 2.53.46S 111.42.19E dropped mainsail half way across here in 13m (6m contour on CMap) 2.51.17S 111.43.55E more leads ahead but rather over-grown 2.49.83S 111.43.48E
2.47.63S 111.42.03E nearly there!
2.47.15S 111.42.10E There wasn’t much local traffic at all and the river is pretty wide. Anchor at 2.44.35S 111.44.02E
Both operators run very good companies, they use the same boats, staff, some guides etc. We did an overnight tour, if I went again I’d go for a two nighter. It is excellent. One tip, we were cold sleeping as its partly in the open with just mozzie nets. Mozzies were not a problem. 10 out of 10 (and we had already seen Orangutans in Sumatra years ago). Several little restaurants ashore, your jungle excursion guys will get anything you need. ATM’s, supermarket etc available in Pangkalanbuun, basics and fruit and veg in Kumai. Beer was not available for sale anywhere (ie supermarkets and restaurants) during Ramadan either here or further on in Bawean Island, so stock up in Bali. This was the last day of clear skies we had until just south of Penang due to the smoke from the burnoffs on Borneo. Easy trip back down the river then bashed our way to windward in very short steep seas to clear the shallows. Headed west and went inside Clemencia and Aruba Banks during the night.
Following gave shallowest depth of 13m 3.23.75S 110.24.80E
3.17.50S 110.15.00E
3.16.23S 110.12.12E
3.09.77S 110.03.48E

ISLANDS ENROUTE BORNEO TO SINGAPORE
SERUTU
Good winds so arrived early still dark. Came up west side of island into flat water. Wind bullets along coast and also in anchorage. CMap slightly off but ok to get in.
Anchored at 1.42.28S 108.43.10E 13m sand, moved closer in morning
EQUATOR PARTY BRUNCH
2 night sail, good winds, reasonable amount of local traffic. Reached equator at 0.00.00N 104.50.04E
Sailed along it until 0.00.04S 104.44.81E in 14m, slight roll.
8 boats had party on Kitani II, fancy dress King Neptune present. Carried on after a few fun hours to
KENTAR
Motored up west coast and along top, CMap accurate enough, 0.03.56N 104.45.59E 12m flat sea
MESANAR
14 yachts in here and still plenty room. Came around outside of rocks in bay then turned in
Anchored at 0.25.74N 104.31.62E in 10m
SEMBULANG Anchored at 0.52.39N 104.14.73E in 8m
NONGSA POINT MARINA apprx ent 1.12.28N 104.05.7E
We have since heard that it washed away late 2006. If it is operational again it was a great little place, lovely resort, pool, wifi, excellent supermarkets about 30mins by taxi or minibus. It is more expensive than the rest of Indonesia but eases you into Singapore prices!!! Last chance to top up on cheap beer until Langkawi, (Singapore beer very expensive) groceries similar prices in Singapore.

SINGAPORE
CROSSING THE STRAITS. We had poor visability due to smoke haze, about 1½ miles. I preferred this as we could only actually see the boats that we might just collide with!!! It wasn’t nearly as bad as we expected. Radar no use as just way too many dots on it!!!
We went to One !5 Marina for a week then onto Raffles Marina for 2 weeks.
THE SISERS IMMIGRATION CLEARANCE POINT 1.12.73N 103.49.84E Call on VHF 74
ONE 15 MARINA entry approx 1.14.46N 103.50.51E
This is in an excellent location, free minibus to huge shopping mall and MRT station, only about 10 mins on MRT into Central Singapore. Marina does get light swell/surge from passing boats and facilities had not been completed when we were there, but great spot on Sentosa Island.
ENROUTE TO RAFFLES *****THERE IS NOW RECLAIMED LAND ABOVE 1.12.44N 103.38.94E*******
RAFFLES MARINA entry approx 1.20.72N 103.38.00E
Very good facilities, pool, gym, restaurants, 10pin bowling, Chandlery. Pontoons/docks rather rundown.
Free minbus to Boon Lay and Jurong East shopping centres, MRT at both these about 45mins into Central.

MALAYSIA
MALLACA STRAITS
PULAU PISANG anchored at 1.28.54N 103.15.39E 7.5m no roll
TANJUNG TOHOR anchored at 1.51.53N 102.40.83E 4.4m ” between stick structures
PULAU BESAR anchored at 2.06.21N 102.19.87E 8.8m current quite strong
PORT DICKSON MARINA – Check in to Malaysia
Disturbed seas at point where lighthouse is. Follow channel on CMap until
2.28.34N 101.49.94E
Turn towards land to 2.28.88N 101.50.44E
Entrance at (hard to see, tucked up) 2.28.77N 101.50.68E
Marina office did all check in paperwork for minimal charge. Great facilities, pool, internet room, restaurant, nice spot. Fair distance from town though. Recommend at least overnight trip down to Melaka, excellent place. Great street food market on Saturday night. Lots of interesting museums, historical buildings all within a couple of miles so easy to walk around. We stayed at Hotel Puri, a little expensive, cheaper option across road, great location though.
PANGKOR LAUT anchored at 4.11.37N 100.32.94E 10.5m went over 4m going in
Asked to leave island (not anchorage) when we tried going ashore for lunch, too exclusive for yachties!!
We had however taken our dinghys ashore earlier further south and done an excellent walk around the island and had a good look through the resort complex and stopped for coffee!! Had the biggest electrical storm here, lightening hitting water around us, way too scary. None of us got hit.
PULAU PANGKOR TELUK BELANGA 4.14.94N 100.32.59E 5.2m lovely beach, little rolly
PULAU RIMAU Cmap out a little 5.14.64N 100.16.41E 4m
PENANG Marina ent apprx 5.24.85N 100.20.64E
Follow the channel markers up the strait, under bridge centre span. Watch for fisherman laying nets across the channel!!! Depending on your draft you may need to wait for high tide to get around INSIDE the marina. Several boats over 2m got stuck in the mud, even at midtide, we didn’t see less than 3.8m. There is also a strong current that runs through, just be aware. Lastly there is the roll, they are building a new wall, maybe it will be finished, but the roll which is very intermittent can be quite bad. Saying all that Tanjong City Marina is in the best spot and Penang is one big culinary delight, it’s a must see spot. Best Tandoori Chicken at El Capitans cnr Chulia and King Sts, order Tandoori Chicken Set with side of rice. Yum yum and so so cheap (oh – no beer served). Also Chinese across road from Marina to the left with tree in front is great. Penang has Tescos supermarket (free bus from Marina), and anything else you could need. (Last decent supermarket until Phuket – Langkawi is not great)
LANGKAWI
There are a lot of anchorages around Langkawi, the following two get you to Telaga Harbour, the end of the rally. The Fjord is achievable in a day from Penang with early start.
PULAU GUBANG DARAT – THE FJORD 6.11.48N 99.47.20E 9m mud – very scenic
PANTAI KOK -TELAGA HARBOUR
There are 2 port and 1 starboard markers over to the right of the two little islands you can see as you approach, these islands are not on CMap and are man made. Some boats went between the two islands, (about 5 minutes quicker) anchored at 6.21.78N 99.40.78E 3m thick mud (low water springs)
Telaga has all facilities for checking in and out, a fuel dock in the marina, petrol station with basis food items, KFC, several restaurants, Tapas Bar (free internet) with Crazy hour very cheap beer and sangria, cheap Indian round the back of Tapas bar, wifi payable internet access from Marina office, some of us could connect at anchor. Marina now charges for access card to use facilities, dinghy dock, showers etc, it is a weekly charge and isn’t much.
You can find most things in Langkawi, but sometimes it is quite an effort. There are 3 reasonable supermarkets – between them you can get most things, fruit and vege is of a very poor quality except for Mr Hong the vege man who calls at Langkasuka Ferry terminal (for Rebak Marina guests) Friday mornings around 9am then goes onto Telaga Marina around 10.30am. He also sells good quality meats, cheeses and smoked salmon. McPhees Importers close to the airport has a good range of Australian produce flown in regularly. If you look in enough places you can find most things. Alcohol is all dutyfree and in abundance.

A couple of useful airline web pages for around these parts are:
http://www.airasia.com/ http://www.tigerairways.com/ http://www.bangkokair.com/ http://www.fireflyz.com.my/

We have been to Thailand and are back down at Rebak Marina (10 out of 10 – superb spot) for the season. Our latest regret is not buying an air conditioner off one of the boats that moved on this year, there were plenty for sale and if you are planning on staying the season it would make life a lot more comfortable.

What about the pirates you ask!!!! Pirates, what pirates???? We never once felt threatened, occasionally a fishing boat would come closer than we are comfortable with but it is more curiosity than anything else. Fishing lines were the biggest problem, from Singapore north they really are everywhere, you just have to get used to them, go around them if necessary or over if you are feeling lucky. Several boats did get caught in them, mainly at night. Also most of the thunder storms occur at night so our feelings are don’t sail at night, there are plenty of anchorages so you don’t need to.

To sum up, it has been a magnificent season from the Australian coast to here, we miss our friends that kept going to Africa or the Med, but there are still great welcomes when rally boats pop up again and recently some very sad goodbyes to Australian and New Zealand boats heading home.

Papua New Guinea ... Sep - Dec 2005

Work in progress - trying to get most recent done first, but if anyone wants info on the Louisiade Archipelago of PNG email us and we will try to help 03/01/09

Way Downunder to Tasmania ................. Jan - Apr 2005

Blog still being built...text to follow...it's on the list 03/01/2009

Heading South from Brisbane ...Dec 2004 - Jan 2005

SUMMERTIME IN PORT STEPHENS, BROKEN BAY & SYDNEY

During a happy hour one night in Musket Cove, Fiji, when asked what we would do in Australia during cyclone season, we started giving it some thought. Many happy hours & beautiful tropical anchorages later, with all memories of sailing in the variables fading away, we arranged with new cruising friends Lynn & Larry Lewis on the American yacht Zephyr to rendezvous in Brisbane & cruise south for the summer.

After a somewhat weather delayed passage down the Queensland & New South Wales coast we finally arrived through the heads at Port Stephens early December, the sky was a brilliant blue, a gentle breeze was blowing & we were lucky enough to pick up courtesy moorings right in Nelson Bay. These are provided in a variety of anchorages on the Australian coast and come with a tag on them indicating maximum boat weight & length and permitted length of stay. They are just great, often available, & as we were to find out shortly, this one was big & strong.

The Port Stephens area is lovely, several Sydneysiders have holiday homes there but it still retains a sleepy, laid back atmosphere with a great mix of walks - out to the heads or through the bush. A word of caution, keep your mouth closed, the pesky flies around these parts were very persistent & the odd one slipped in as appetizer! That afternoon, the marine weather update forecasted periods of damaging winds. We hadn’t heard this type of warning before but it didn’t sound good. So back to the boat & with extra lines on the mooring buoy we watched the clouds gather & shortly thereafter got knocked down to starboard, then to port. Short & not so sweet, over in less than 2 minutes, registered 70knots on the wind instruments but so quick you wonder if you might have just imagined it. Following that we were very diligent listening to forecasts, but luckily have not seen anything nearly as bad.

Moving further up into Port Stephens most of the shoreline is National Park & there are numerous bays, coves and shallow creeks awaiting exploration. Somewhat limited by our 2.4m draft we still managed to get right up to Lemon Tree Passage a lovely sheltered spot with excellent bush walks (well its not bush like NZ but you just have to accept its different). The evening chorus of birdsong here has not been matched anywhere in our travels & was truly outstanding. However the highlight of our stop was locating koalas in the wild, not an easy task spotting those bundles of fur asleep in the treetops. We decided a very early morning walk might find them a little more lively & were rewarded for our 5am start with a mother and baby very active, moving from branch to branch, just magic.

Time was marching on and we wanted to be in Sydney by Christmas so out into the big blue wobbly stuff again for an overnight passage south to Broken Bay. This huge sheltered waterway north of Sydney comprises of the Hawkesbury River, Cowan Creek, Brisbane Water & busy Pittwater. About 90 per cent of the shoreline is unspoilt National Park, there are numerous coves & inlets, many with courtesy mooring buoys again, so we spent several days exploring all the nooks & crannies of this magical spot. It’s not great for sailing as the distances are small & the wind funnels through, but for getting away from it all it’s superb with so many anchoring options. Late one afternoon we experienced our first taste of how hot the breeze can be if blowing from the outback, within about 20 minutes it rose 8 degrees, sure warmed things up! Again we did some great walks, startling wallabies in the wild, searching out aboriginal paintings & having well earned breaks atop rocky outcrops, taking in the incredible vistas. Happy hour creek dinghy excursions were always well rewarded with kookaburras, cockatiels, & all other manor of birds abound in their evening chorus.

Christmas was approaching so southbound once more to our final destination for the year, Sydney Harbour. As an Aucklander I confess I thought sailing into Sydney would be nothing special, I take it all back. Through Sydney Heads, around Bradleys Head, & wow, there’s the Harbour Bridge & Opera House silhouetted against the vivid blue sky. The seabreeze had filled in, we had full sail up, there were ferries, speed boats, yachts, kayaks, all coming from every which way – but Mark had not had so much fun since Thursday rum racing - he was not to be deterred, wanting a quick blast past the Opera House for a photo opportunity. Here we learnt that we can do a speedy controlled jibe two handed if the other option is colliding with the Opera House! Then it’s under the Harbour Bridge, sails down – phew – & we motored up past Darling Harbour, under the Anzac Bridge into Rozelle Bay, where we squeezed into the 2.5metre shallows & claimed a spot amongst several other cruisers. Made it!!!!!

We had a month in Sydney & each day was filled with a new adventure. From our anchorage in Rozelle Bay we would dinghy over to the famous Sydney Fish Markets in Blackwattle Bay then walk 20mins to Darling Harbour or beyond. Alternatively we would dinghy ashore metres from the boat & have a very short uphill walk to Glebe High Street, where overflowing with exotic cafes and deli’s we sampled some of the best & cheapest of Sydney’s culinary delights.

We spent Boxing Day bathed in glorious sunshine atop South Heads with thousands of others watching the start of the annual Sydney to Hobart race. For New Years Eve we joined the crowds on the water & anchored outside Taronga Zoo in a prime spot for the fireworks display. The harbour was so busy we really could have jumped from boat to boat, but Lady Luck was looking after us and there was not a breath of wind. The fireworks were just awesome, not to be missed. We anchored off Double Bay and dinghyed ashore for lunch to mix with the rich and famous. Next we went onto Watsons Bay for a cruisers reunion where all the “doing land stuff” cruisers arrived in their campervans & joined us “still cruising” cruisers to tell stories over a few tinnees with fish & chips.

Then it was over to the North Shore where we spent an enjoyable week at anchor in Little Manly, catching up with family & stretching our legs on the excellent harbourside walks. Discovering Sydney by water can not be completed without a sojourn under the opening Spit Bridge into Middle Harbour. This magical waterway is also surrounded by National Park but with some rather exclusive homes nestled in the trees. The fjord like inlets & secluded bays were superb, again most with mooring buoys, & considering we were there peak season it was not at all overcrowded. Shore access was limited throughout Middle Harbour, but for remote cruising so close to a large city it must be hard to beat.

On reflection of our time in Sydney we would give it 10 out of 10. There was an amazing variety of anchorages & we did not need to marina Balvenie once, they even have a “dial a fuel station”, who offered prompt service at dockside rates, excellent. Was it worth the overnight passages down the coast???? – well, as Tasmania was our next destination, it was just sort of on the way!!!!!!