05 - 08 July 2010
***Balvenie in the lovely big bay of Golfo Pevero, just a mile or so from the famous Porto Cervo, this private ship on our right is 'Dilbar', one of the largest in the bay (oh, and the world)***Us outside the Costa Smeralda Yacht Club (proof just above the door!)***Waterside dining platform on this little number, not much privacy with people like us peering in***This one is 'Tatoosh', saw it last year in Corfu too, spot the jacuzzi tucked inside at the back of the swim platform and don't miss the play yacht stowed high up on the portside***
As much as we love being able to tie up to a free dock in a pleasant town, it was hot and sticky in Olbia and there were picturesque anchorages with sea breezes and white sand waiting for us so after 3 nights we firstly untied Gone with the Wind who were still rafted to us, then let our lines go and motored out the channel. Passing an incoming ferry and yacht at the narrowest and shallowest part gained our full attention for a while then it was a clear run all the way to Porto Polli, just 6 miles north! A cooling dip followed by an even cooler drink finished the day in this lovely spot tucked behind a little island.
It was tempting to stay a day and relax but there was a gentle sea breeze and more great anchorages to come so we headed out and around the headlands. We made radio contact enroute with American couple Karen and Steve onboard their yacht Threshold who had been checking in on our cruisers net all season, time to meet face to face so we all diverted into Golfo de Marinella, then up popped Eye Candy too, another wonderful anchorage, super weather, lovely people and very long happy hour!!
We moved again the following day, this Northeast corner of Sardinia is littered with excellent shallow anchorages in clear water, but we decided to see how the other half live and headed for Porto Cervo on Sardinia's northern Costa Smeralda. Developed in the '60s and owned by the Aga Khan this is where the vastly rich and famous vacation. A marina berth for us in summer is a snip at 294Euro, or perhaps a mooring buoy in the tiny harbour at only 80Euro. (yes that is per night not week!!). There is a minute space for anchoring but we had Gone with the Wind and Eye Candy with us and three boats were just not going to fit. You guessed it - we were not rich or famous enough!! So we did a quick drive around in circles, got some photos and backtracked a mile of so to the huge anchorage of Porto Pevero. Now this needed to be a big anchorage, as all the rich and famous had their 'ships' parked in there, and this wasn't because they couldn't afford Porto Cervo, it was simpy because they were too big. What an amazing display of wealth in an area of around 1 square mile, not to many signs of the austerity measures around here!!!
The dinghy ride around to Porto Cervo was really too long so the following day Eye Candy kindly offered to up anchor and take us and GWTW around, we felt we could squeeze one boat in at anchor and the plan worked well. We had our shore excursion, really it was just nothing special ashore at all and almost had a closed up feeling to it. Still if you were on one of those stunning gigayachts why would you want to leave your air-conditioned comfort to go ashore!! We found a great cheap spot for lunch (truly) and even met up again with Peter and Bridget off White Rose who were visiting by bus, this is a small mobile community we live in - can't go too far without seeing someone we know!
Ferried back to our boats by Eye Candy, just time for a cooling swim then a late afternoon sail in the seabreeze to our next stop. We were up to the Football World Cup semi finals and skipper needed a big screen television to watch it on!
Cruising info for Isla Porri, Golfo de Marinella, Porto Cervo and Golfo Pevero:-
Anchorages -
Isla Polli - 40 57.499N 09 35.123E 6m sand, can tuck in further in shallower water, nice spot if late leaving Olbia as just an hour north
Golfo de Marinella - 41 01.20N 09 35.54E 8m sand, we had a little beach to ourselves for big happy hour and no others boats at anchor, magic
Porto Cervo - didn't get lat/long but sharp right as you come in the entrance room for maybe 4 yachts in shallow but clear water, a couple of yachts were anchored past the mooring buoys but it looked very shallow
Golfo Pevero - 41 07.01N 09 32.85E 8.5m sand big bay, tuck up inside all the Big Boys
Communications - WIND Dongle, Vodafone and TIM phones all good
Money - Porto Cervo only place with anything. ATM machine 250Euro max
Provisions - Good supermarket at Porto Cervo, and only a tad more expensive
Eating Out - Lord Nelson Pub in Porto Cervo excellent hamburger and chips (how bad is that!!!)
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