We Have Circumnavigated the World ~ Opua ….. November 2016

25 Nov -  04 Dec 2016:  Bay of Islands Marina, Opua ~ 38 18S 174 07E

We Are Back in New Zealand

In the early hours of the 25th of November, under the cover of total darkness Balvenie motored the final few miles into the Bay of Islands. We navigated our way up Veronica Passage and at 02.30am nudged up to the Customs and Quarantine Dock in Opua. (Huge thanks to Conrad on Ruby Danger and Eric and Cathy on Erica for staying up and helping us tie up.) 

We had sailed around the world and were back in New Zealand, we looked at each other in amazement, we had done it, we had really done it.

Yellow flags flying, the Customs & Quarantine Dock is full

Let The Parties Being

The adrenaline was flowing, as was the rum.  There was little sleep to be had as yacht after yacht arrived during the early hours of the morning and into the day.  Each new arrival joined in the party atmosphere on the dock, all were relieved to have their last big passage of a very long journey across the Pacific finally behind them. The long trip south to New Zealand from the tropics can never be taken lightly.  

The NZ Customs & Quarantine staff did an excellent job of processing us all in a timely manner, considering they had a cruise ship in port too.  They were professional, friendly and welcoming – a great introduction to New Zealand for all our foreign friends.

We headed into the Bay of Islands Marina for a week to treat ourselves.

The Island Cruising Associations’ All Points Rally festivities were in their final days and we managed to take part in some of the events. It was a very social time and wonderful to have a central focus for us to regroup, say hellos and goodbyes before we all start going separate ways over summer.

The Balvenie Celebration Party

The numbers for our Welcome Home/Circumnavigation/Magellan Netters/Pacific Crossers party just kept on swelling, I truly thought everyone would be partied out, but no, they came out in force to celebrate – we filled the Opua Yacht Club with nearly 100 happy cruisers. 

My brother-in-law Robert drove up from Auckland (Denise my sister was overseas), Martha and Bryce off Silver Fern (retired cruisers who completed their circumnavigation last year) and with whom we spent many an anchorage on our journey drove cross country, and some of this years cruisers who were already down in Whangarei came up for the occasion too, it was a very special fun evening.

The Magellan Net Awards

To add some light hearted fun to the evening we hosted the first and probably the only ever Magellan Net  Awards.  The HF/ SSB Radio on a sailing vessel would have to be one of the most important pieces of equipment onboard.  For us it has been our lifeline for communicating almost everyday when at sea or in remote anchorages for the last 12 years.  It is the offshore cruisers version of Facebook for keeping in touch with cruising friends.

We have participated in a cruisers net ever since we left Auckland in 2004.  We have “met” hundreds of cruisers over the radio, a handful we never met in person, but most we did and many have become lasting friends.

In Portugal during the summer of 2011 we started up the Magellan Net (nickname Magnet) with friends Andrew and Clare on Eye Candy (still in French Polynesia) for all of us that were sailing across the Atlantic Ocean that season. By November 2011 we had over 30 boats checking in regularly to the net. 

The boats have changed over the years but the Magnet stood the test of time.  It underwent a necessary split earlier this year, the Poly Magnet stayed in French Polynesia with Eye Candy and helpers keeping it going, the Magnet kept heading west and now south – last week we still had over 20 boats calling in daily, we along with several other net controllers have brought it home to New Zealand and we will try to keep it running while cruising over summer. 

And So To The Awards

Prizes of a Bottle of New Zealand Wine or Bags of Chocolate fish went to:

Most Entrepreneurial Mini Magneters ~ “Pizza on the Reef” Team (best read the Minerva blog if you don’t know about them), Noah & Ferne on Jade, Horatio & Noah on Enough, Alice, Felix & Tiffen on Kalon and Zara on Aislado.  All under 10year olds!

Most Amazing Mum ~ Michelle on Jade for having 8 mini magnetters making pizza dough in her galley

Longest Time Between Checking In and Us Meeting Them ~ Jeanette & Neil on Echo Echo who first checked in while in the Bahamas and we met them finally in Tahiti .  Jeanette also received an honouree award for sounding the most distressed (her version is sea sickness) but she never gave up!

Checked In on the Most Different Boats ~ Bill & Gene on Out of the Bag who also did 2 deliveries while Magnetters on Blue Dream and Kiwi Beanz – crazy or what?

Best Radio Signal in the Fleet ~ Went to Eye Candy but as they are still in French Polynesia unfortunately they missed out - Omweg gladly took 2nd place and drunk the wine on their behalf, cheers from Ilona & Frans!

Most Speeding Infringements & Most Exotic Destination ~ Russell, Greer & Family on the catamaran Tika were the only yacht to go to Norfolk Island as well as reporting the fastest boat speed in the fleet doing nearly 19 knots one morning.  Out of the Bag lodged a late protest claiming higher speeds.  Too late, bad luck!

Fastest Mono This Season ~ Couldn’t quite win this ourselves, and we did try.  Well done Jeff, Miriam & boys on Enough (they are longer than us so we reluctantly conceded to them)

Most Patient Magnetter ~ Single-hander Garry on Freedom Song seemed to spend a good part of the season bobbing around waiting for wind or waiting for the wind to change direction so he could sail.  Then some of these guys wonder why they are single handing!

Most Improvement Checking In ~ Charlie, crewing on Sahula got thrown into checking in one morning and was totally unprepared and well, it was a shambles.  After a little guidance she was spot on in future and was chuffed with her wine for getting it all wrong first time!

Most Concise Checking In ~ Lanny on Swiftsure missed out as they have headed north to the Marshalls for Cyclone Season (told them not to) but Verner on Windance III was very happy to receive a Pinot Noir for 2nd and enjoyed every drop

Lifetime Achievement Award As Longest Serving Magnetter ~ Tony on Tactical Directions has been with us on the Magnet since it started as he popped out of the Med and headed for Morocco in 2011.  Actually we first heard Tony on the ‘Sheila Net’ as we all headed north up the eastern Australian coast way back in 2005, he is also our longest cruising friend still out here with us!!  

For those of you that read this and haven’t cruised, it will be hard for you to understand how big a part of our circumnavigation our cruisers nets have been along the way.  For those of you that are cruisers, well - you know.

We are a small transient community, the Magnet (and all the other earlier models – Namba, Sheila, Over the Top, Sandeq, Turkey Shoot & Dragnet) have been our lifelines.

Thanks to all of you that have shared these times with us as we sailed around the world, we couldn’t have done it without you.

The Circumnavigation May Have Ended But The Memories & Friendships Will Last Forever

Green Green Grass of Home ….. November 2016

Day 6 Underway Minerva Reef to Opua, New Zealand

Position at 6 22pm 24 Nov 16

34 30.712s 174 17.694e
Heading 180T,

Speed 4.5 knots sailing

Sunny skies, quite warm

Light winds and flat seas, wind just started to fill in again a couple of hours ago

Miles to run  34 to Customs Dock in Opua

24 hour run 140 miles, under motor until 4pm this afternoon

1710 HRS – Land Ahoy on the Starboard Bow!!!!!!!!!!!!

We finally sighted land just over an hour ago, think its the Cavalli Islands, now Cape Brett has come into view also    We have slowed down now we are sailing again and may just get in at dawn, cant believe this is it

The numbers for the party at the yacht club have reached over 60, its going to be a great night on Sunday, the end of an era and in case you missed it yesterday

  DID I MENTION WE HAVE CIRCUMNAVIGATED

Been Around The World ….. November 2016

Day 5 Underway Minerva Reef to Opua, New Zealand

Position at 6.22pm 23 Nov 2016

32 29.712s 174 48.694e
Heading 200T,

Speed 5.8 knots under motor - glassy seas no wind at all

Have been motoring since 1.45pm, going through the centre of the high, sunny earlier, 90% cloud cover now.

Superb sailing overnight with a glorious starlit night, light winds and flat seas.

Miles to run  172 to Customs Dock in Opua

24 hour run 134 miles, good speeds overnight but slower in light winds today

We Have Circumnavigated the Globe!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Just a short while ago, under motor unfortunately, we crossed over our outward track from Auckland to Fiji so now have officially sailed around the world, what a major milestone that is, we are very proud of ourselves.

Shortly before that we came into New Zealand waters, we are now within 200 miles so are now classed as coastal cruising (on our insurance policy anyway), I will be more encouraged when I actually see some coast, and all of this will start to feel more like reality, right now its all a little surreal.

On our morning net we have 3 other kiwi boats coming in who are completing circumnavigations also, so we have decided to have a party on Sunday night at the Opua Yacht Club.  We did a quick shout for numbers over the net this morning, everyone heading for Opua is coming so there will be over 40 of us (we have one of the boats in Opua advising the OYC so they can buy plenty of vegetables and extra meat for the Sunday night roast!!)

We really wanted to sail the whole way on this last leg, we were the only boat still sailing this morning.   When the winds lightened we put the pole up and poled out the headsail.     Then the breeze dropped even more so we got out our big colourful cruising chute (quite a production getting it out and setting it up), it wouldn't fill so then we poled it out like a spinnaker and floated along for a while.  Finally we (skipper) conceded that if we wanted to get in before the low on Friday morning we would need to motor so all the sails have been put away and we are chugging along in 2 knots of wind.  

More dolphins today but they just cruised on by, one suicidal flying fish landed noisily on the deck overnight and woke me up, gosh they make a mess, the boat is filthy covered in salt and fish scales.

WE’VE SAILED AROUND THE WORLD!!!!!!

Alone Again, Naturally ….. November 2016

Day 4 Underway Minerva Reef to Opua, New Zealand

Position at 5pm 22 Nov 16 

30 06.882s 175 18.946e
Heading 200T, Speed 6 - 7 knots,  Wind up and down still anything between 15-22 knots ESEovernight, eased some today as we sail into the centre of the high.  Should start backing to the east then northeast

Seas up overnight but settling down now and hopefully will continue to flatten

30% cloud cover, been a lovely day much warmer with some sun

Miles to run  314 to Customs Dock in Opua

Another 24 hour run over 150 miles, very happy

Yesterday afternoon we had 2 sails appear on the horizon behind us, so lovely to have some company we could actually see.  Neither responded to our calls on the radio though and we lost them at sunset as they went on by without lights on.  We think we know who they were, 2 boats in Minerva that didnt mix with any of the rest of us, some cruisers are just above the rest of us peasants!!

We have lots of boats around still though, we are all converging on the same point of course and the boats that left Friday are being hunted down by those that left Saturday.  The fastest should get in late Thursday afternoon, then Customs will be very busy with 26 of us from Minerva, 2 are coming direct from Tonga, and we know of three from Fiji - all due overnight Thursday or before dark Friday , then its party time in Opua.  The final dinner for the Island Cruising Club Rally Week is on Saturday night so we hope to make that and celebrate our arrival home.

Not much else to report, no dolphins, no suicidal flying fish on the decks today, a couple of seabirds passing over - all quiet back in the Eastern Hemisphere.

Once Upon A Time In The West ….. November

Day 3 Underway Minerva Reef to Opua, New Zealand

Position at 5pm 21 Nov 2016  27:53S  176:53E

Heading 200T, Speed 6knots,  Wind up and down still anything between 10-15knots back to SE.    Sea down to under 1metre with wind chop on top,  100% cloud cover and gloomy.

Miles to run ~ 466 to Customs Dock in Opua

Just a short one, wind just picked up again and getting bumpy     Crossed the date line so back in the Eastern Hemisphere after all this time, should have lost a day, but we already lost one when we arrived in Tonga, don't think we should lose another!  All ok, would like some more sleep and sun though.

The Tide Is High & We Are Moving On ….. Nov 2016

Day 2 Underway Minerva Reef to Opua, New Zealand

Position at 5pm 20 Nov 2016   26:00S  178:44E

Heading 203T, Speed 6knots,  Wind up and down but trying to settle at 10-12knots ESE    Sea down to under 2metres and flattening,  80% cloud cover

Miles to run ~ 606 to Customs Dock in Opua

We snuggled in behind the south western corner of the reef at Minerva while the front passed below and the swell increased to over 3 metres.  Except for an hour or so each side of high tide it was very comfortable, all looked a bit gloomy in the grey skies after such an outstanding run of wonderful weather though.

On Friday the 18th 12 of the slower yachts decided to leave and start bashing their way to Opua, we couldn't quite see the attraction in going out into over 20knots of wind coming from exactly where you want to go, especially as the weather window has extended about 12 hours at the other end and everyone should get in without problems.

The rest of us waited, yesterday morning dawned  somewhat gloomy but the winds had eased to 10 knots and had backed slightly to the south south west - it was time.   We were 2nd out of the remaining 14 to leave yesterday morning at slack water,  I expect the lobsters and fish are very pleased to see us all leave.

We have had very variable winds, the speeds have gone up and down like a yo-yo, the direction changing just as frequently, but slowly backing around to the east, then it will hopefully settle in to a rhythm for a few days to push us on our way.

All's well on board, just trying to get some sleep.

Benny & The Jets–2 Days Tonga to Minerva ….. Nov 2016

09 – 11 Nov 2016: Passage to North Minerva Reef ~23 37.165S 178 54.301S

This morning at 0630 we arrived at what must be the most amazing anchorage in the world.  We have come about 270 miles SSW from the bottom of the Tongan chain and are anchored in 13 metres of depth in the South West Pacific Ocean.

North Minerva Reef has no land (rumour has it there is a tiny sandy knoll that pops up at low tide), just a circular coral reef with a west facing entrance, it is very weird dropping anchor in here when all you can see is ocean.

We had a good sail, we were one of about 14 that left Tongatapu, so far we have 11 arrived here this morning, we have quite a flotilla.

Our big excitement yesterday morning was seeing two jet streams, we have been wondering when we would start seeing signs of civilisation again ~ the last jet streams we remember seeing were when we sailed away from Panama, at that was 17 months ago.  Of course the other big news was the US election result, well who'd of thought, Donald Trump is going to have sole control of the little red button, maybe we should stay at sea for another few years and ride this out!!

We will update again once we move on, about to look at the weather forecast now, just heard some radio discussion of maybe leaving this afternoon - WHAT!!!!!!!

Freebird ~ Day 7/8 Panama - Galapagos

Position at 2330 local  YESTERDAY  22 June was 00 05.77S 088 24W

   

COG 245degrees  SOG 8knots  Double Reefed Main, Reefed Gib, True Wind 14 knots still just in front of the beam, 2 metre swell

Another Cloudy Day but no squalls since  morning, still 4 booby birds on the bow,

Zero Degrees South

A decent days sailing on a close reach, keeping things as comfortable as they can be for a windward trip.  The wildlife is increasing, 3 black tip sharks have swum by, 2 big turtles - one of which was face to face with a small crab, looked like they were having a standoff, well the crab wasn't going to eat the turtle, and I thought turtles were vegetarians so who knows what that was all about.
   

The booby birds have been making an invasion, they seem to think we are a small island and have all moved in, sitting (or should that be s*itting) on the pulpit, hanging on for dear life.  Think we peaked out with 12 of them up there and two on the dinghy davits at sunset.  They are great company and have been keeping us amused, spirits onboard are rising at last.

Zero Degrees North

We gave King Neptune a Mt Gay Rum on the equator and so far the South Pacific is being kinder to us than the North Pacific was.  The wind has backed some and finally is just in front of the beam and we are romping along doing 8 knots with everything still reefed (cant unreef the gib cos it will make the birds fall off!!!)

23 June

Heavy cloud cover again overnight but there was a spell of about 2 hours when it clearted and the stars came out at last, what a treat.

Land Ahoy, yippee

Land ahoy at 6.30am, just after dawn, reached the northeast tip at 8.30am then had one of the best sails ever down the lee of the island in flat water, about 15 on the beam, fabulous.  Amazing scenery, a few tour boats around, crystal clear water.  Lost count of the amount of giant turtles we saw, the clouds cleared and a brilliant blue sky has stayed with us now all day, it is stunning here.

Anchor down in Wreck Bay, San Cristobal, Galapagos at 1430 local (actually 1330 local, need to change our clocks another hour), a Danish boat we met in Panama here and an American one a day or so behind us so will have some company.

Our Agent has been and rid us of $1345 USD, the fees for our 3 month permit here and we gave (sold) him his 6 bottles of Johnnie Walker Black Label he asked us to bring.  He will be back in the morning with all the officials - meanwhile skipper has jumped overboard with the sealions to make sure our bottom is still nice and clean, then we will have a very early dinner and and VERY long sleep.

WE ARE IN THE GALAPAGOS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!  

Someones Knocking At The Door ~ Day 5/6 Panama - Galapagos

Position at 0945 local  1445 UTC  00 00.77N 086 45W   22 June

WE ARE RUNNING ALONG THE EQUATOR

COG 245degrees  SOG 8knots  Double Reefed Main, Reefed Gib, True Wind 14 knots still just in front of the beam, 2 metre swell

Sunny Skies now, 4 booby birds on the bow, oh ~ here comes another squall!!!!

24 hour run 0830 - 0830 was 156 miles.

The days are all melting into each other somewhat, conditions yesterday were somewhat lively. 

Night time Visitors, Interesting Boat Registered in Guadeloupe

Quite a lot to report, starting with maybe two days ago (could have been three) we were overflown mid afternoon by an AWACS aircraft with a big satellite dish on top, they did a very low flyover and made a good attempt at trimming the top of our mast off.     Conditions in the afternoon were ok, hard on the wind but about 10 knots so not bad and we were almost laying our course for San Cristobal in the Galapagos.

The heavy clouds formed again at dusk and squalls showed all around us on the radar.  Then I saw lights of a boat, we wondered whether someone was coming to do a drugs inspection after the flyby, who else would be out here without radar, as nothing was showing up, but maybe it was lost in the squalls.  We were both below tidying up for night time when we saw lights shining on us and heard an engine and voices.  But no, this was no drugs bust, just 2 men in an open wooden fishing boat about 25 feet long and they had swung by to say hello and to show us their catch of enormous fish, maybe mahi mahi or tuna but bigger than us, almost the length of their boat.

Of course this meant they brought their boat VERY close alongside,  we had a good sea running and one wave came up between the boats and bounced off them and we got the most saltwater in the cockpit we have ever had, they thought it was hilarious, guess they get drenched by waves the whole time ~ we do not!! So off they went then turned round and came straight back, this time they asked for water and we threw them a gallon bottle we had in the saloon but he came too close to get it, another wave came through and they hit the boat, profuse apologies and he gunned it to get away but we expect we will have a scar alongside to show of our visit!

We were 400 miles offshore and there was actually a small  fleet of about 6 of them, guess there was a mother ship too. Shortly after the squalls started hitting and we rolled up the gib and drifted around for the next few hours, happy to have the lights of the fishing boats as company.

When the wind returned it had changed direction directly out of the south south west, straight where we wanted to go, at this point we had 361 miles to the top of San Cristobal but we needed to tack away south east, to be able to sail and get some southing in. The wind was forecast to come around to the south and build so we needed to get as south as far as we could to make the next few days as comfortable as we could.

17 hours later when we tacked back we had 368 miles to go, skipper and admiral were quite despondent but we had achieved a much better position.  We had a good sail on the new tack all day, always as hard on the wind as was comfortable, cloudy skies all day, heavy cloud cover at night, the moon was visible for about 10 minutes one night, the only time we have seen it so far since leaving Colon

That will do for now, I am going cross eyed and we are almost in the southern hemisphere, best get ready with camera.  Life on board is improving 

   

Every Which Way But Loose ~ Day 5 Panama - Galapagos

Position YESTERDAY 20 JUNE 2015 at 1515 local  1915 UTC  02 04N 083 39W   

More when conditions improve for typing 

As you can see from the photo sometimes the best place to get some rest is on the floor

We moved the mattress down there on the second night, and it stayed there for the whole trip!

  

Who Painted The Moon Black? ~ Day 4 Panama - Galapagos

Position at 1415 local  1915 UTC  03 13N 083 37W   19 June

this looks nice, but is sure wasn't all like this

24 hour run will be 100 miles for the 3rd day in a row .
Currently sailing with a double reefed main and heavy reefed  gib.

We have been sailing since 1.30pm yesterday, initially in light winds and quite comfortable seas but then at dusk the clouds formed out of nowhere and gave us a very heavy blanket of cover for the whole night, boy was it dark out there.

Winds built to 18 knots true, right from where we want to go so hard on the wind, once again ~ when will it end?  Ocean swell and lots of other currents swells going on making for a messy sea once again, combined with the extra wind.

this flying fish didn't manage to escape, but it tried hard!!

Skies now clearing and wind easing a little, COG 270 degrees, SOG 4.2 knots, just trying to keep things comfortable.

Will have to tack at some point to get further south, wind not looking like co-operating to do this without tacking

All is well, still tired but at least not so many sail changes the last 24 hours and no rain or lightening

If this is the "milk run" I would suggest that someone has curdled the milk!!!!!

  

Breaking Up Is Hard To Do ~ Day 2/3 Panama - Galapagos

Position at 1215 local  1715 UTC  03 36N 081 53W   18 June

motoring in glassy seas

24 hour yesterday run only 100 miles, today wont be much better.
Currently motoring in under 2 knots wind, glassy seas but ocean swell and lots of other currents swells going on making for a messy sea, now sunny/hazy skies, COG 190 degrees, SOG 5.7 knots

Yesterday was horrible, started ok sailing with full sails in light winds but then forecast trough and thunderstorms came through and threw everything at us for several hours, torrential rain, lightening and thunder, winds from every direction but thankfuly nothing over about 22 knots.

skippers chatting to the passing birds

The heavy cloud cover stayed with us all day and night, with no breaks in it and an exceptionally dark night was not enjoyed.  After the storm passed the seas were all churned up and have settled somewhat but we are still bobbing up and down way more than we should be. 

It also took all the wind so we are now motoring south trying to get to the light trades.

This morning dawned quite clear, there is cloud on the horizon, hopefully it will bring some wind. We are both well but very very tired and hot, about 540 miles to run.
 

  

Great Balls of Fire ~ Day 1 Panama - Galapagos

Position at 1515 local  2015 UTC  06 39N 080 25W

24 hour run 147 miles  currently  Sailing in Wind 9 knots SSW, calm seas but ocean swell, sunny/hazy skies, COG 205 degrees, SOG 5 7 knots

Had a great start with solid wind up to 20 knots just aft of the beam late afternoon and until dawn when things lightened up

Lost wind completely at 11am so have been motoring since, just put sails back up and sailing again but still quite light

Lots of distant lightening last night, but overhead starry skies and not a glimpse of the moon at all    Several shooting stars, wouldn't be surprised to find aliens in the dinghy when we drop it, one came down that close   Dancing dolphins at dawn stayed about an hour and a flying stingray did a couple of belly flops nearby    There also seems to be a major pelican migration going on, maybe they are going to the Galapagos too

  

Balvenie Tiptoes through the Abacos ….. Dec 2013

05 – 27 Dec 2013: Charleston US to Lynyard Cay Bahamas – 26 21N 76 59W

Finally Heading to Warmer Climes

We departed Charleston on a warm clear morning and started our passage southeast with flat seas and light winds.  The first day and night out were magical.  We had beautiful conditions: sunny skies all day, scores of dolphins frolicked in our bow wave continuously, the sunset was perfect and darkness brought a starry sky as bright and brilliant as any we have witnessed. 

As we know perfect conditions rarely last and daybreak day two brought with it a band of squalls, a slight strengthening of the wind and a change of wind angle to directly where we wanted to go. Combined with the northwest running Gulf Stream conditions were not what you would call favourable, but we soldiered on with winds across the boat up to 23knots, always sailing as high as we could.  

We  had originally planned to make landfall on the Bahamian island of Eleuthera, slightly further south and east of the Abacos chain but as the wind angle changed so did our plans, we headed for the Abacos instead.  The photo shows the dark bold line as the direct route, just 346 miles, the dotted line on the right that goes all the way out, then comes all the way back is our route – 526 miles sailed.

 

Land Ahoy!

We spotted the lights of Grand Cay predawn on our 5th morning.  Rather a long sail to cover quite a short distance but besides not actually being able to point at our destination  it hadn’t been a bad trip.

We made our way into the Abaco Islands chain of the Northern Bahamas through Walkers Cay Channel and dropped anchor in crystal clear water off Tea Table Cay.  Next up was a hearty cooked breakfast accompanied by a rather stiff Rum and Coke – landfall is not complete without a Rum, no matter what time of day!

Dipping Our Toes in the Abacos

After checking in and contributing US$300 to the Bahamian economy for the pleasure of receiving our 3 month cruising permit we started wandering slowly eastwards through this low lying island chain.

The waters here are mighty shallow and each day we would plot our course through “deep water”  like doing a join up the dots game.  We tried very hard to stay in 4m, sometimes this just wasn't possible and often we glided along with just a metre of water between us and land, somewhat unnerving when sailing along at 5 knots with full sail up!   This was made even more exciting on the not so infrequent occasion when the charted depths were less than what we were seeing, even at high tide – not good for the nerves.

Playmates Again!

We were surprised at how quiet this area was, we saw few other yachts along the way so were thrilled to hear on our morning SSB Radio net that friends Jim and Carola on Aussie boat Koza were heading our way.

We moved most days as the weather here at this time of the year is quite unsettled.  The winter cold fronts crossing the USA reach this far south and although the temperatures don’t drop much, the wind goes round in circles (very similar to what we experienced last year in Belize).  So checking and digesting the weather has become quite a time consuming daily task and then out comes all the charts as we check possible routes and search out sheltered anchorages, its keeping us on our toes!

Over the next couple of weeks we stopped at small cays (islands) mostly uninhabited.  This was really not what we had expected.  We had envisioned the Bahamas to be an extension of Florida with ghastly high rise resorts and jet skis but the good news is that any attempt to develop this beautiful part of the world tends to get scuppered by the odd hurricane, and so a cruising yacht can still come here and find solitude. 

As the sun sets off Balvenies stern the only sounds are of the odd turtle breaking the surface and exhaling before taking another deep breath and slipping out of sight again or the rhythmical swish of a seabirds wings as he passes overhead on his way home.

Back to “Civilisation”

With some changeable winds forecast and our supply of fresh produce dwindling we headed for the very protected anchorage within Marsh Harbour.  We found several other yachts congregated in this compact area.  There is a reasonable town with all the amenities we needed – excellent supermarket, phone shop for internet sim, laundromat, diesel and water available, an atm, and a handful of bars/restaurants perched over the water to enjoy the odd happy hour or two. 

Replacing More Aging Equipment

Whilst waiting for the weather to improve, Mark spent a couple of days removing our old SSB radio, tuner and all its wiring and replacing it with our recently purchased Icom M802.  Our old Kenwood has served us very well but has become unreliable over the past 18 months, even after being repaired twice, so before we left the USA we purchased a replacement. 

At over NZ$3,000 these are an expensive piece of equipment but one we are just not prepared to do without. The twice daily cruisers net we partake in (and several others we sometimes listen to) are a big part of our day, we can talk to our friends hundreds of miles away and find out where and how they are – Bandit are now in Panama, Eye Candy in the US Virgins, Serafina in Dominica, GWTW & Cristata in Florida, to name just a few.  We also pick up detailed daily weather forecasts on air and can send text only emails too. 

Anybody that tells us High Frequency Radios are no longer necessary in the age of internet and satellite phones has probably never had one – to us they are priceless.  Sure, we are happy to have our satphone too, but they are very expensive and you can only talk to one person at a time! As for internet, well we love having it onboard but that, of course, is subject to being in range of a cell tower.  Our SSB works anywhere and it’s like having a good old fashioned party line – best not say anything bad cos you just never know who is listening!! 

Short Hop over to Hopetown

In company with Koza, we made use of settled weather for a couple of days and headed across to nearby Hopetown.  There is a very sheltered harbour there but it is too shallow for us both, so we had to anchor a very long way out - as you can see on the photo below from the top of the Candy Stripped, manned, kerosene fuelled lighthouse.

We went ashore for a stroll through the very well cared for village.  There is little traffic, mainly golf carts on small lanes, just a handful of touristy shops, a cafe, a couple of harbour side restaurants, a small museum and post office – and ALL were closed on this sleepy Sunday morning just days before Christmas!!  All the houses have been painted in an array of vibrant colours, most appeared to be holiday rentals, but all up it was a quaint wee place and the oceanside beach had the softest ever sand.

 

 

picturesque houses, very well decorated letterbox and the Atlantic beach all at Hopetown

Inclement Weather for Christmas Day

After another couple of nights  back at Marsh Harbour we stocked up on produce and left the sheltered waters of the Abaco Banks on Christmas Eve.  In brilliant sunshine and light winds we headed out one of the cuts in the reef back into the Atlantic.  We had a short run of under 30 miles before we ducked back inside the reef to sheltered water and  the anchorage at Lynyard Cay. 

The forecast for bad weather on Christmas Day turned up right on schedule (but Santa Claus didn’t!!), Koza – being hardy Australians who will bar-b-que in any weather – went ashore in what could only be described as very much less than perfect conditions and had our planned Christmas barbie on the beach.  We went for the Roast Pork and all the trimmings option, tucked up inside Balvenie, out of the wind and rain,  maybe we are just softies!!

We stayed on Boxing Day, the sun returned and conditions were perfect, we spent time ashore – the soft sandy beach golden in the sun, the water clear and warm.  But we weren’t alone, a family of turtles kept a close eye on us during our stay, popping their heads up to check on our whereabouts frequently.  And then we realized why – for the first time ever we saw two baby turtles, flying past at speed in shallow water, what an absolute treat.

Those Were the Abacos …… off to Explore Eleuthera