Wandered Down to Whangaruru ….. January 2018

12 – 14 Jan:  Tuparehua Bay, Whangaruru ~ 35 21S 174 20E

From Mumu to Ruru

After a couple of sunny days and peaceful nights anchored in Whangamumu we left in company with French Curve to move 16 miles further south.  Two sail boats – same length, going the same way, yep it was race on.  Conditions were glorious for a light air downwind run, nothing too strenuous today. 

Whangaruru is a large harbour with a choice of several anchorages offering shelter from most wind angles.  We nestled in close to the harbour side of Bland Bay a popular spot for Kiwis camping for their summer holidays as there is the protected harbour beach and on the other side of the sliver of an isthmus is the ocean.   Just perfect. 

14 years ago when we came this way in Balvenie conditions were perfect for anchoring in Bland Bay and we dinghied ashore and met up with friends camping there, now it was time to see it from the other side.

We had originally thought we would spend a few days here exploring but with a change of weather on the horizon we changed plans and just stayed 2 nights.

Worthwhile Walk ….. Whangaruru North Head Loop (about 8 kms, leisurely 3 hours from memory, shorter option down from top, elevation about 180 metres)

We took the dinghy ashore to the beach on the right of the little island - Sandy Bay?, there were private homes and some campers and we asked to walk through one property to join the gravel road behind.  Turn right and you can see the sealed where you go right again and after a short time there was a big DOC sign on the left (hidden behind long grasses and easy to miss).  It was a gradual climb initially through grasslands then up into native bush with a few spots for admiring the view.  More steeply uphill to the ridge with a sign on it showing a track directly downhill on the right for a shorter option.  We carried on, passing remote coves then the trail crosses back to the harbour side, through some farmland and past some buildings that are an Outdoors Camp.  Then we followed a dirt track that went inland and took us along to the bay in the adjacent photo, the sun came out, campers were in swimming, kayakers were paddling, a very Kiwi summer scene.  There is a camp ground there (toilets and water), walk through it and you will find another DOC track to the next beach north, then there was an unmarked but wide trail inland about 100m which joined the road.  Turn left and straight forward along here back to the dinghy, not very far.

 

Still More Whanga’s To Come

Which Way are all the Whanga’s? ….. Jan 2018

10 – 12 Jan 2018:  Whangamumu ~ 35 15S  174 17E

Farewell to the Bay of Islands

When we arrived from the tropics to Opua late November 2016 never in our wildest dreams did we think it would be 14 months before we would start our journey south to Auckland.  But as we all know life has a way of throwing the unexpected when least expected, so here we were a year later than planned, finally homeward bound. 

We sailed out of the Kerikeri Inlet on another stunner of a summers day, a light breeze filled the sails and skipper pointed for Cape Brett.  The Bay was buzzing with life - yachts under full sail heading in all directions, fishing boats big and small hunting for the catch of the day and tour boats aplenty doing the Dolphin Spotting and Hole in the Rock cruises. 

You could not have asked for a more perfect day to slip across the head of bay, then “Shoot Piercy”, just one of those things all coastal sailors around these parts like to do when conditions allow.  Its the small and often very lively little gap between the Hole in the Rock and Cape Brett, today it was flat calm and we shot on through.

 

First of 3 “Whanga’s”

Sailing into Whangamumu was like discovering a hidden gem, the outer harbour is an acceptable anchorage in its own right but as you continue a inner sanctum unfolds and what a top spot.  It looks quite small on the chart but by sunset we had very close to 50 vessels of all shapes and sizes and we had room for a few more.

We rendezvoused with our American friends on French Curve, and were thrilled to have quick catch ups with Savarna, we last saw Keith and Pam in the US Virgin Islands and also Paul now on his new yacht Matariki, we did the Auckland to Fiji Rally in 2004 with Paul and his family on his previous yacht Montego Bay and hadn’t seen them since.

The fabulous run of weather continued the following day and after a great cooked breakfast on Matariki we ventured ashore to explore the ruins of the old whaling station.  Back in the early 1900’s whalers would set nets out from the coastline to Net Rock to trap or slow down the humpback whales then go out in their boat to harpoon them.  They were then dragged into the harbour and processed.  According to records over 70 whales were trapped in 1927.

 

Worthwhile Walk …..  From Whaling Station to Waterfall/Scenic Lookout

Dinghy ashore to the little beach where you can see the ruined jetty and whaling station.  Its easy to find the track up to the waterfall, its about 10 mins each way and there are a couple of small pools that you can have a dip in.   Return to the beach and head behind the ruins on the path and soon there is a sign indicating left inland to Rawhiti  or straight ahead up to Cape Brett.  We took the Cape Brett path, it was quite a steady steep climb on a well trodden path, mainly in the shade of native bush. It took about 30 mins to reach the lookout at the top, the photos above show the spectacular view.  We returned down to the sign post and took the path to Rawhiti, it follows the coastline to the head of the bay but appeared to be low tide access only.  It looked like you would need to take your dinghy to the beach at the head of bay to access the trail through the grass up the hill inland.  

What’s The Next Whanga?

Bermuda - It's the 35th America's Cup ..... June 2017

Bermuda - We Cheated,  We Flew Here!..... 14 - 22 June 2017

This is scarier than watching the racing.

Very happy, won 4 from 4!!

We are in the NZ Herald

With our honoury kiwi cruiser mates Iain & Fiona

I have been very quiet on the blogging front, mainly because I only have had my tablet for months and it is so hard blogging on it.

I'm making a short effort as we have flown to Bermuda to support our America's Cup sailors in their bid to bring the Auld Mug back to New Zealand.

We arrived a week ago and had a superb 5 nights staying with cruiser friends Hannah & Paddy who actually own an island here, how cool is that!  Also staying were our British (temporarily ex cruiser) friends Fiona & Iain.

Interesting having a mix of Landrover BAR, Oracle & Emirates Team New Zealand  supporters all staying together, lots of banter and opinions and not a cross word.  Well done Team Cruisers!

We are now in our booked apartment close to Hamilton, the main town here on Bermuda.  The sun is shining every day and boy is it hot and humid.  We watched the America's Cup Youth Regatta, great fleet racing and full of action.  NZ squeezed into 2nd place by GB, even after a 2nd and 3 1sts, great action though.

We are having a great time on this island paradise,  but getting itchy feet waiting for the next round of racing to start.  GO ETNZ! 

Beautiful Bay of Islands ….. December 2016

05 – 10 December:  Russell & Matauwhi Bay – 35 18S 174 07W

After the Bubbles Settled

The celebrations continued for a few days as more and more yachts arrived into Opua.  This was the light at the end of the tunnel for many boats after a long long passage across the vast Pacific Ocean.  We spent a week in the Bay of Islands Marina washing layers of salt off the outside, cleaning and sorting out the inside of Balvenie.  Laundry was done (ah the joys of washing machines) sim cards were activated, Wi-Fi connections made to reconnect with the world.  Then came the task of restocking the lockers with all our old kiwi favourites and undertaking taste tests to find new ones.  We were back “in the land of stuff”, and didn't our wallets know it.

TIME TO BUY MARK SOME NEW SHORTS!

Historic Russell, Hellhole of the Pacific!

We left the marina after a week and headed off 4 miles back out the Veronica Channel to Russell, gosh I like these little short hops!

This has always been a favourite spot for us to visit, although this was the first time we had arrived on our own boat.  Russell was settled long before Captain Cook arrived in 1769 and thrived as a provisioning stopover, mainly for whaling ships.  It expanded quickly in the early 1800’s and for a time became known as the Hellhole of the Pacific, it once had the most public houses (pubs) in NZ and was the countries first capital.

THE HELL HOLE OF THE PACIFIC IN THE SOFT EVENING LIGHT

The restored historic Duke of Marlborough Hotel has prime position on the waterfront and was issued the first hotel license in New Zealand in 1840.  When the whaling ships left and the capital was relocated to Auckland things quietened down considerably.  Most visitors arrive now as day-trippers by ferry from nearby Paihia and discover a charming compact sleepy seaside town with handsome historic buildings lining the bay.    

We enjoyed a few nights anchored outside the moored boats, the ferry wash during the day does get a little annoying but tolerable, if you want to take a mooring call Russell Radio on VHF63 and they will allocate you one if there is anything available, they take payment too.

New to the Blog ……..  

Worthwhile Walks

GREAT OVERVIEW OF THE BAY FROM THE FLAGPOLE

 We are keen on keeping fit and jumping off the back of Balvenie for a swim and snorkel just isn’t an option until the water warms up considerably.  So for now we will enjoy walking, both for exercise, spotting birdlife and seeing the countryside.  Now that we are home we will share worthwhile walks we enjoy and try to give a few directions so if you want to follow in our footsteps you wont get (too) lost.  Warning though, we do like hills and we walk fast.  The DOC signs I refer to are the yellow and green Department of Conservation ones, they normally indicate times of walks and level of fitness required, sometimes they have a map.

   
From Russell Wharf to Tapeka Pa via Maiki Hill Flagstaff (3hrs – shorter options detailed, good hills) 

From Russell Wharf turn left along the waterfront, past the Duke of Marlborough along road.  Turn right at junction before car park then left straight away and follow the road up the steep hill.  (If you just want to go to the Flagstaff take this road to end then footpath through bush).  On the left there is a marked DOC bush track on the left off the road, it is detailed as alternative route to the Flagstaff, take this downhill to the T junction.  (You can go left here back to Russell only at Low tide).  Turn right up the hill to the road.  Continue up road, another marked track on your left offers a side trip down to a small beach about 10-15mins return. 

VIEWS ENROUTE TO TAPEKA PA

Back on road another 100 metres on right is track up to Flagstaff.  Lovely view, also short track across to Sundial up here, in between these two in the car park is track on right which takes you back to original steep road and Russell.   

To continue to Tapeka Pa retrace steps from Flagstaff down short track to road and turn right then left along main road.  Take care, there is no footpath but it is not a busy road.  Along here a way on the right is a marked private track open to the public, it goes down through the bush and there is a boardwalk through wetlands, it re-joins the road just before Tapeka settlement.  This is a small coastal village with no shops.  Follow road to right then around to left then there is a DOC track sign on left at top of road, some uphilling then levels off, this takes you out to the end of the peninsula for a wonderful view of the islands.  Return same way to Tapeka settlement.  From there is a low tide only walk back to Russell along rocks, we were there at low tide but the track wasn't obvious to us so we  returned via the road to Russell.

Here Comes Summer!!

We Have Circumnavigated the World ~ Opua ….. November 2016

25 Nov -  04 Dec 2016:  Bay of Islands Marina, Opua ~ 38 18S 174 07E

We Are Back in New Zealand

In the early hours of the 25th of November, under the cover of total darkness Balvenie motored the final few miles into the Bay of Islands. We navigated our way up Veronica Passage and at 02.30am nudged up to the Customs and Quarantine Dock in Opua. (Huge thanks to Conrad on Ruby Danger and Eric and Cathy on Erica for staying up and helping us tie up.) 

We had sailed around the world and were back in New Zealand, we looked at each other in amazement, we had done it, we had really done it.

Yellow flags flying, the Customs & Quarantine Dock is full

Let The Parties Being

The adrenaline was flowing, as was the rum.  There was little sleep to be had as yacht after yacht arrived during the early hours of the morning and into the day.  Each new arrival joined in the party atmosphere on the dock, all were relieved to have their last big passage of a very long journey across the Pacific finally behind them. The long trip south to New Zealand from the tropics can never be taken lightly.  

The NZ Customs & Quarantine staff did an excellent job of processing us all in a timely manner, considering they had a cruise ship in port too.  They were professional, friendly and welcoming – a great introduction to New Zealand for all our foreign friends.

We headed into the Bay of Islands Marina for a week to treat ourselves.

The Island Cruising Associations’ All Points Rally festivities were in their final days and we managed to take part in some of the events. It was a very social time and wonderful to have a central focus for us to regroup, say hellos and goodbyes before we all start going separate ways over summer.

The Balvenie Celebration Party

The numbers for our Welcome Home/Circumnavigation/Magellan Netters/Pacific Crossers party just kept on swelling, I truly thought everyone would be partied out, but no, they came out in force to celebrate – we filled the Opua Yacht Club with nearly 100 happy cruisers. 

My brother-in-law Robert drove up from Auckland (Denise my sister was overseas), Martha and Bryce off Silver Fern (retired cruisers who completed their circumnavigation last year) and with whom we spent many an anchorage on our journey drove cross country, and some of this years cruisers who were already down in Whangarei came up for the occasion too, it was a very special fun evening.

The Magellan Net Awards

To add some light hearted fun to the evening we hosted the first and probably the only ever Magellan Net  Awards.  The HF/ SSB Radio on a sailing vessel would have to be one of the most important pieces of equipment onboard.  For us it has been our lifeline for communicating almost everyday when at sea or in remote anchorages for the last 12 years.  It is the offshore cruisers version of Facebook for keeping in touch with cruising friends.

We have participated in a cruisers net ever since we left Auckland in 2004.  We have “met” hundreds of cruisers over the radio, a handful we never met in person, but most we did and many have become lasting friends.

In Portugal during the summer of 2011 we started up the Magellan Net (nickname Magnet) with friends Andrew and Clare on Eye Candy (still in French Polynesia) for all of us that were sailing across the Atlantic Ocean that season. By November 2011 we had over 30 boats checking in regularly to the net. 

The boats have changed over the years but the Magnet stood the test of time.  It underwent a necessary split earlier this year, the Poly Magnet stayed in French Polynesia with Eye Candy and helpers keeping it going, the Magnet kept heading west and now south – last week we still had over 20 boats calling in daily, we along with several other net controllers have brought it home to New Zealand and we will try to keep it running while cruising over summer. 

And So To The Awards

Prizes of a Bottle of New Zealand Wine or Bags of Chocolate fish went to:

Most Entrepreneurial Mini Magneters ~ “Pizza on the Reef” Team (best read the Minerva blog if you don’t know about them), Noah & Ferne on Jade, Horatio & Noah on Enough, Alice, Felix & Tiffen on Kalon and Zara on Aislado.  All under 10year olds!

Most Amazing Mum ~ Michelle on Jade for having 8 mini magnetters making pizza dough in her galley

Longest Time Between Checking In and Us Meeting Them ~ Jeanette & Neil on Echo Echo who first checked in while in the Bahamas and we met them finally in Tahiti .  Jeanette also received an honouree award for sounding the most distressed (her version is sea sickness) but she never gave up!

Checked In on the Most Different Boats ~ Bill & Gene on Out of the Bag who also did 2 deliveries while Magnetters on Blue Dream and Kiwi Beanz – crazy or what?

Best Radio Signal in the Fleet ~ Went to Eye Candy but as they are still in French Polynesia unfortunately they missed out - Omweg gladly took 2nd place and drunk the wine on their behalf, cheers from Ilona & Frans!

Most Speeding Infringements & Most Exotic Destination ~ Russell, Greer & Family on the catamaran Tika were the only yacht to go to Norfolk Island as well as reporting the fastest boat speed in the fleet doing nearly 19 knots one morning.  Out of the Bag lodged a late protest claiming higher speeds.  Too late, bad luck!

Fastest Mono This Season ~ Couldn’t quite win this ourselves, and we did try.  Well done Jeff, Miriam & boys on Enough (they are longer than us so we reluctantly conceded to them)

Most Patient Magnetter ~ Single-hander Garry on Freedom Song seemed to spend a good part of the season bobbing around waiting for wind or waiting for the wind to change direction so he could sail.  Then some of these guys wonder why they are single handing!

Most Improvement Checking In ~ Charlie, crewing on Sahula got thrown into checking in one morning and was totally unprepared and well, it was a shambles.  After a little guidance she was spot on in future and was chuffed with her wine for getting it all wrong first time!

Most Concise Checking In ~ Lanny on Swiftsure missed out as they have headed north to the Marshalls for Cyclone Season (told them not to) but Verner on Windance III was very happy to receive a Pinot Noir for 2nd and enjoyed every drop

Lifetime Achievement Award As Longest Serving Magnetter ~ Tony on Tactical Directions has been with us on the Magnet since it started as he popped out of the Med and headed for Morocco in 2011.  Actually we first heard Tony on the ‘Sheila Net’ as we all headed north up the eastern Australian coast way back in 2005, he is also our longest cruising friend still out here with us!!  

For those of you that read this and haven’t cruised, it will be hard for you to understand how big a part of our circumnavigation our cruisers nets have been along the way.  For those of you that are cruisers, well - you know.

We are a small transient community, the Magnet (and all the other earlier models – Namba, Sheila, Over the Top, Sandeq, Turkey Shoot & Dragnet) have been our lifelines.

Thanks to all of you that have shared these times with us as we sailed around the world, we couldn’t have done it without you.

The Circumnavigation May Have Ended But The Memories & Friendships Will Last Forever